Largo de Soares dos Reis

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Giant flowers once bloomed here. Not real ones of course. These illuminated art installations brought joy to Largo de Soares dos Reis. They fostered a connection between the community and local commerce.

Let’s delve into the heart of this place. Largo de Soares dos Reis is more than just a square. It is named after António Soares dos Reis. He was one of Portugal’s greatest sculptors.

Born in 1847, Soares dos Reis showed artistic talent early. He carved wooden figures and molded clay saints. His neighbor Diogo de Macedo noticed. The painter Resende also saw promise. They convinced his father to send him to art school.

At 14, he entered the Academia Portuense de Belas Artes. He excelled. Soares dos Reis won prizes in drawing, architecture, and sculpture. By age 20, he was studying abroad. He went to Paris. There, he attended the atelier of M. Jouffroy. He also went to the École Imperiale et Speciale des Beaux Arts. He earned top marks again. His peers nicknamed him “voleur des prix”. It means prize thief.

The Franco-Prussian War forced his return. His Porto Academy teachers sent him to Rome. In Rome, he created “O Desterrado”. This became one of his most famous works.

Returning to Portugal in 1872, Soares dos Reis received acclaim. He became an Academician of Merit. He co-founded the Centro Artístico Portuense. This promoted visual arts. In 1881, he became a professor at the Academy. He aimed to improve sculpture education.

Soares dos Reis gained national fame. He received commissions for major works. These included statues of Afonso Henriques and Brotero. He also made busts of notable figures. However, controversy struck.

In 1881, he exhibited “O Desterrado” in Madrid. He won first prize. King Afonso XII of Spain honored him. Yet, some accused him of not creating the piece. The scandal upset him deeply. Though his reputation recovered, his health declined. He suffered from mental distress and isolation.

In 1885, at 38, he married Amélia Aguiar de Macedo. They had two children. But family life brought more unhappiness. Differences in character led to frequent arguments.

Rejected works and continued slander worsened his condition. Feeling misunderstood, Soares dos Reis took his own life. He shot himself in his studio in 1889. He left a note expressing his pain and forgiveness. He was only 42.

Despite his short life, Soares dos Reis remains a key figure in Portuguese art. His work enriched the national artistic heritage. The Museu Nacional Soares dos Reis is named in his honor since 1911. It was originally created in 1833 by D. Pedro IV. It safeguarded art from suppressed convents. The museum became the Museu Soares dos Reis after the Republic was proclaimed.

So, when you stand here at Largo de Soares dos Reis. Remember the sculptor’s story. Think of his talent, his triumphs, and his struggles. Consider the giant flowers. They brought a temporary burst of color to this historic place.

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