Làng chiếu Cẩm Nê

Clutching a handful of fragrant sedge, I welcome you to Làng chiếu Cẩm Nê, the enchanting mat village of Da Nang. This isn’t just a village; it’s a living testament to a craft that has intertwined with the history and culture of Vietnam for centuries. Làng chiếu Cẩm Nê, nestled 14km southwest of Da Nang’s bustling city center, in the Hoa Tien commune of Hoa Vang district, offers a tranquil escape. Here, amidst the fertile delta of the Cam Le River, the rhythmic click-clack of looms fills the air. Làng chiếu Cẩm Nê traces its roots back to Hoang Hoa in Thanh Hoa province, brought south during the 15th century by King Le Thanh Ton’s conquest of Chiem Thanh. This tradition, passed down through generations, has woven itself into the fabric of this community. The mats of Làng chiếu Cẩm Nê aren’t merely functional; they are works of art. Unlike most craft villages, Làng chiếu Cẩm Nê doesn’t grow its own jute and sedge. Villagers journey to other regions, carefully selecting the finest materials for their craft. They weave a variety of mats, from simple plain mats to elaborate floral designs. Plain mats, showcasing the natural white fibers of undyed sedge, come in two main varieties. The long spherical weave uses unspliced microfibers, prized for its smooth texture. The other uses two short sedge yarns, a more affordable option. The creation of a floral mat at Làng chiếu Cẩm Nê is a labor of love. Instead of printing patterns onto white mats, artisans meticulously dye sedge yarns in vibrant hues of red, blue, green, yellow, and subtle shades in between. Each bundle of sedge is dipped and dried multiple times, depending on the desired color intensity, creating a rich tapestry of colors before weaving even begins. The tools of the trade are just as important. The village artisans favor aged areca palm for their looms, ensuring strength and flexibility. Two weavers work in harmony at each loom, one managing the gauge, the other expertly wielding the shuttle. After ten hours of continuous work, a pair of mats emerges, ready to be spread out under the sun, their colors gleaming in the sunlight. Làng chiếu Cẩm Nê’s mats have a unique quality. Their edges, meticulously folded and reinforced, are thicker and more durable than mats from other regions. This attention to detail, a testament to the skill of the village weavers, sets Làng chiếu Cẩm Nê apart. Today, Làng chiếu Cẩm Nê faces the challenges of a modern market, competing with mass-produced goods. Yet, the villagers remain committed to their heritage, supporting each other and upholding the reputation of their craft. As you leave Làng chiếu Cẩm Nê, may you carry with you not just a beautiful mat, but also the story of a village dedicated to preserving a centuries-old tradition.