Tucked between Hiroshima, Kure, and Higashihiroshima, the town of Kumano is nestled in a mountain basin. Kumano isn’t easily accessible by train. The nearest station is Yano, on the JR West Kure Line. But trust me, the journey is worth it. Kumano is renowned as the heart of brush-making in Japan, home of the famed “Kumano-fude.” Imagine, for centuries, skilled artisans have crafted brushes here, their techniques passed down through generations. In Kumano, nearly everyone has a connection to the brush industry. It is a town steeped in tradition.
Kumano has a rich history, dating back to ancient Aki Province. In the Edo Period, the area was part of Hiroshima Domain. The town officially became Kumano-cho on October 1, 1918. But the brush-making tradition started much earlier. During the Edo Period, Kumano farmers supplemented their income by selling brushes and ink sticks brought back from Nara and Wakayama. Eventually, three innovative farmers learned the craft, bringing their knowledge back to Kumano. This sparked the industry that would define the town.
Kumano-fude brushes are not simply tools. They are works of art, meticulously crafted through over seventy steps, many still done by hand. The process involves everything from using rice husk ash to remove oil to binding the brushes with linen thread. A variety of animal hairs, including goat, horse, deer, and weasel, are expertly blended using techniques like “neri-maze,” a traditional method that ensures the highest quality. Though faster methods exist, neri-maze remains the choice for the most discerning artists and calligraphers. Even today, Kumano produces a staggering 80% of Japan’s calligraphy brushes and a remarkable 90% of its makeup brushes.
The spirit of Kumano-fude is celebrated every year at the Fude Matsuri, held on the Autumn Equinox. Brushes adorn the path to the local shrine, Sakakiyama Shrine, a historical landmark dating back to the 1700s. Here, women perform traditional brush dances, and calligraphy masters create impressive works of art with giant brushes. A respectful burning ceremony commemorates the brushes that have reached the end of their service. It is a moving tribute to the tools and the animals that provided their hairs.
The demand for calligraphy brushes may be declining, but Kumano’s artisans have adapted, expanding into makeup brushes. These exquisite tools are now coveted by makeup artists worldwide. You can even experience the craft firsthand at workshops where you can create your own Kumano-fude makeup brush. Kumano is more than a town. It is a testament to the enduring power of tradition, innovation, and the artistry found in even the simplest of tools. So, the next time you hold a brush, remember the legacy of Kumano, where the spirit of craftsmanship lives on.