Perhaps you know Shenzhen only as a modern metropolis. Yet, step back in time with me to discover the intriguing story of Kowloon.
Shenzhen, a city now synonymous with technology and trade began as something quite different. Kowloon’s narrative is interwoven with Shenzhen’s transformation.
Before Shenzhen rose, there was Shum Chun. This town gave Shenzhen its name. Imagine a place where gangsters thrived. It was a haven for those seeking fortune and risk. Hongkongers crossed the river into what was then known as the Monte Carlo of the East.
This was Kowloon’s neighboring area, a place of casinos and cabarets. Shum Chun welcomed those who spent money. George Chow wrote of roulette tables surrounded by Britons and Americans. He mentioned Frenchmen and Italians. Portuguese and Parsees too. Hindus, Mexicans, Spaniards. Even Swedes and Germans rubbed shoulders with Japanese and Chinese. All watched the little white ball. Each hoped it would land on their number.
Gambling was the main attraction near Kowloon. Dance halls offered orchestras. Taxi dancers filled the floors. Restaurants served both Western and Chinese cuisine. Triads ensured safety but casino patrons were off-limits. Robbery was forbidden. Kidnapping was out. Extortion was not tolerated.
At first, only fan-tan was played. Westerners arrived from Hong Kong. They added chemin de fer. Dice and slot machines joined the games. Macau thrived on the other side of the Pearl River Delta. Shum Chun competed with free cigarettes. Cigars and drinks enticed players. High rollers received refunds for first-class train tickets to and from Hong Kong. Even those traveling third class got a free round trip.
Kowloon’s neighboring town Shum Chun did not last. World War II brought disruption. Later, Shenzhen emerged as a special economic zone. Yet, the stories of Shum Chun and its casinos linger. They remind us of a different era. It was a time when fortunes were won and lost. It all happened just across the water from Kowloon.
Today, Shenzhen stands tall. It is a testament to China’s economic reforms. But remember the whispers of Shum Chun. Recall the Monte Carlo of the East. That was Kowloon’s neighbor, a fleeting glimpse into a vibrant, yet vanished world.
Today, the high-speed rail connects Kowloon directly with Shenzhen.
Consider that next time as a train whisks you between these two cities.
You are traversing not just distance but also time.
From a gambler’s paradise to a technology hub.
Kowloon and Shenzhen stand side by side. They are testaments to change.
They are testaments to the enduring spirit of enterprise.