Contemplate this massive sandstone pillar before you. This is the Ashokan Pillar. It stands tall within the Feroz Shah Kotla, a fortress built in 1354 by Feroz Shah Tughlaq. He wanted a new capital and called it Firozabad.
Feroz Shah Kotla literally means fortress or citadel. Imagine this place bustling with the Sultan’s court. Picture elephants and horses moving through the grounds. But today only ruins remain.
The pillar is not from Firoz Shah’s time. It is far older. Emperor Ashoka erected it in the 3rd century BC. It once stood in Topra Kalan in Haryana. Firoz Shah Tughlaq had it moved here in 1356. Moving it was no easy feat. The pillar was carefully wrapped in cotton silk. It rested on a bed of reed made of raw silk. A massive carriage with 42 wheels transported it. Two hundred men meticulously pulled the carriage all the way to Delhi. Once in Delhi, it traveled by boat to this very spot.
Look closely at the pillar. Do you see the inscriptions? The script is Brahmi. The language is Prakrit with some Pali and Sanskrit. For centuries nobody could read it. It remained a mystery until 1837. James Prinsep translated it. He deciphered the ancient script. The inscriptions reveal Ashoka’s policies. They speak of dharma and virtuous living. Ashoka encouraged people to be kind. He wanted them to respect elders. He promoted freedom. He even planted fig trees for shade along the roads.
Firoz Shah Kotla is more than just a pillar. It includes the Jami Masjid. This is one of the oldest and largest mosques still in use. It shows Tughluq architecture. Timur visited this mosque in 1398. He liked it so much he copied the design for a mosque in Samarkand.
Notice the circular Baoli near the pillar. Baoli means stepwell. It is unique in Delhi. The tank is not separate from the well. Subterranean apartments surround the well. An underground canal once brought water to it.
Feroz Shah Kotla is known for more than history. Locals believe djinns live here. These spirits are said to grant wishes. Every Thursday crowds gather to pray. They write wishes on paper. They leave offerings of milk and food. This tradition started in 1977. Some believe a ministry of djinns resides within these walls. Some djinns are malevolent. The most evil one is said to be imprisoned in an underground cell.
Feroz Shah Kotla has seen centuries of change. Rulers rose and fell. Buildings crumbled and were rebuilt. Classical music once filled the air. Plays were staged here. Even Prime Minister Nehru attended a performance. Now only the echoes of the past remain. Take a moment to appreciate the layers of history around you. The pillar stands as a silent witness. It has seen empires rise and fall. It has heard prayers and wishes. The Feroz Shah Kotla is a place where history and legend intertwine.