Venture back in time with me. We are standing before Kosuge-jinja Shrine. This Shinto shrine boasts a history stretching back roughly 1,380 years. Emperor Jomei ruled when it was established between 629 and 641 AD.
Kosuge-jinja Shrine was once among northern Nagano’s three great ascetic training centers. Its rear main shrine and attached palace are designated National Important Cultural Properties. The Kosuge Hashiramatsu event is also a nationally recognized cultural treasure. The shrine’s grounds feature other structures designated as Cultural Properties by Nagano Prefecture and Iiyama City.
Until the Meiji era, Shinto and Buddhism were not separated. Kosuge Shrine was known as Kosugezan-ganryuji. It was a New Shingon Buddhist temple. During this time, it thrived as a sacred space for mountain ascetics alongside Togakushi and Iizuna.
En-no-ozuno, the father of Shugendo Buddhism, founded a temple on Mt. Kosuge around 680 AD. He was searching for a place to promote Buddhist teachings. Sakanoue-no-tamuramaro rebuilt the Hasshogongen-honmiya and Kayakirido temples during the Daido Era from 806 to 810 AD. He also founded the Shugenin and Kosugezan-ganryuji temples.
Kosugegongen also known as Matarajin was worshipped in the temple. Shrines were built to invite the appearance of the seven buddhas. They came from Kumano, Kinpu, Hakusan, Tateyama, Sanno, Hashiriyu and Togakushi.
The Takanashi and Ichikawa dynasties battled for control of the Kosuge area from the Kamakura period until the beginning of the Nanbokucho Era. The Muromachi shogunate brought stability. Mt. Kosuge prospered as sacred ground for Shugendo practitioners.
During the Warring States Period, the Shinano region became a battleground. The Uesugi and Takeda warlords fought for control. Kenshin Uesugi prayed at Mt. Kosuge for victory against Shingen Takeda. However, Uesugi was defeated in 1567. Takeda’s army burned Ganryuji temple to the ground. The main inner shrine was rebuilt after Takeda’s defeat.
During the Edo period, efforts focused on rehabilitating the cedars along the path to the inner shrine. Religious architecture was also restored. The sacred area of Kosuge was removed from feudal protection. It was placed under the control of local villages. Religious services gradually shifted to festivals with entertainment and sightseeing.
During the Meiji Era, Buddhism and Shinto separated. Ganryuji temple became Kosugesha-hasho-daijin. In 1900, it was renamed Kosuge Shrine. This shrine is the foundation for the current Kosuge Shrine.
The Kosuge Shrine inner sanctuary enshrines eight deities. It sits at nearly 900 meters above sea level. Records show the shrine was restored in 1592. The main and auxiliary shrines were built during the mid-Muromachi period. They were designated as national Important Cultural Properties in 1964.
The building faces southward with a gabled roof entrance. The northern face is against a rock wall. Water drips from the rock face forming a pond in the inner shrine area. The pond was once used as an object of worship. Kenshin Uesugi prayed here for victory before dispatching troops to Kawanakajima. The principle object of worship is a depiction of Hayagriva. The inner building holds a tsuzumi-iwa. It is said to make a noise like taiko drums when hit.
Kosuge is also known as a popular place for proposals. Kosuge Shrine’s deity has been worshipped as a God of matchmaking. Along the path to the shrine is Yume-no-kayoi bashi. Kobo-daishi Kukai crossed this bridge. It is said to ensure happiness. Nearby is Aizen-iwa where the deity Ragaraja is said to fulfill wishes for love.
Kosuge-jinja Shrine stands as a testament to time. It blends history, spirituality, and natural beauty. As we conclude our visit, remember the stories and the sacredness of this place.