What if I told you that rock over there is not just a rock? It is Koshikiiwa Shrine’s heart. This megalith is called Koshiki-iwa. Locals call it Rice Steamer Rock.
Koshikiiwa Shrine is a Shinto shrine in Nishinomiya Hyogo. It is also known as Ebisu Daijingu. The shrine’s focus is this megalith. Ancient Japanese people thought its shape resembled a rice steamer.
The rock is impressive. It stands ten meters high. Its circumference measures 40 meters. People believed the Koshikiiwa promotes pregnancy and protects childbirth. Rice is closely connected to fertility in Japan.
Koshikiiwa Jinja has a history dating back centuries. In the Engishiki, Okuninonushi-Nishi-Jinja is cited. This document about royal ceremony in the Heian Period. Scholars believe this shrine is today’s Koshikiiwa Jinja.
Around 1644, Koshikiiwa Shrine was reconstructed. In 1656, Ebisu from Nishinomiya Shrine was enshrined here. Monk Kyojun performed this enshrinement. The inner shrine was built in 1936. The outer shrine was built in 1983.
There’s a famous story about this rock. In the 1580s, Hideyoshi wanted to use it for Osaka Castle’s construction. He wanted the rock’s protective magic for the castle. Marks on the rock show where they tried to cut it.
However, when Hideyoshi’s men tried to cut the Koshikiiwa it emitted a poisonous gas. The gas overcame them. They had to abandon their plans. Some say this suggests trapped heat beneath the surface. Perhaps it is a folk memory of volcanic forces. Look closely and you can see a mysterious crack. It looks like compressed energy caused it.
Near Koshikiiwa rock is Kitanokura. It translates to North God Sitting Place. Rocks are strongly associated with gods in Japan. They serve as goshintai holy body for the kami.
Interestingly, a Buddhist priest installed the main kami in 1656. This was before Buddhism and Shinto were separated.
The Koshikiiwa Shrine grounds include an outdoor sumo dohyo. They also have a stage. Kagura may have been performed here. Every autumn, they hold a Nakizumo Crying Baby and Sumo Festival. Babies in ornamental sumo aprons enter the ring. Votive pictures from 1831 show this event.
The shrine is aligned towards the top of Mt Kitayama. Outlying rocks align north-south and east-west. Beyond the shrine is a split stone. It points towards the sunrise on the winter solstice. It also points towards the sunset on the summer solstice.
Take a moment to appreciate Koshikiiwa Shrine. It is a place of intriguing folklore. It connects us to ancient customs and beliefs. Who knows what voice of the kami you might discover in the heart of that rock?