Smell that? A peculiar mix of dust and time hangs heavy in the air. You are standing before Khirki Gate in Delhi. Or rather what remains of it.
This isn’t just any gate. Khirki Gate is a portal to the past a reminder of Delhi’s rich history and architectural prowess. Specifically it’s part of the remains of the Jahanpanah city the fourth of Delhi’s seven historic cities. Built in the 14th century during the Tughlaq dynasty’s reign this mosque wasn’t your typical place of worship.
Khan-i-Jahan Junan Shah the prime minister of Feroz Shah Tughlaq designed Khirki Mosque. It was intended as a pious inaugural contribution to the capital. The name Khirki meaning window refers to the unique latticed windows adorning the second floor. These aren’t just any windows. They’re intricate stone carvings letting in a filtered light into the vast interior. Imagine the sunlight dappling the floor as worshippers prayed.
The mosque’s design is unusual. It’s a 52-meter square raised on a plinth. Four open courtyards bring light and air into the structure. A network of 180 columns and 60 pilasters supports 81 small domes. Four minarets stand guard at each corner. The southern gate with its imposing steps is a fascinating blend of arch and trabeated construction.
But Khirki Mosque’s story isn’t just about beautiful architecture. It’s also a tale of neglect and restoration. Over time many domes collapsed walls crumbled. The roof threatened to fall. Early restoration efforts caused concern. Improperly mixed lime mortar left parts of the mosque an unfortunate shade of pink. This led to the suspension of the project and a workshop to teach the proper methods of restoration using lime-surkhi mortar.
More recently the Archaeological Survey of India announced further restoration work in 2023. Archaeological digs uncovered many copper coins adding another layer to the Khirki Mosque’s intriguing past. The completed restoration in 2024 has brought the mosque closer to its original glory.
Despite its current state Khirki Mosque remains a captivating structure. It is a testament to the architectural skill of the Tughlaqs. It’s a place where history whispers through the weathered stones and the bats which still call its ruined domes home. A place where you can almost hear the prayers of centuries past echo in the quiet courtyards. Today Khirki Gate stands as a fascinating piece of Delhi’s history a silent observer of the city’s evolution. So take your time. Soak it in. Let the past speak to you.