Ever wondered where your Galápagos adventure truly begins? It starts right here on Isla Baltra. This seemingly unassuming island plays a vital role in your journey. Isla Baltra is also known as South Seymour. Most travelers first set foot on Isla Baltra when visiting the Galápagos Islands.
Unlike its volcanic neighbors, Isla Baltra is an uplifted island. It was once underwater. Volcanic activity near Santa Cruz Island changed the underwater geology. This created the flat landscape we see today. Notice the rounded volcanic rocks. These are pillow lava, formed only underwater.
Isla Baltra holds a unique history. During World War II, the United States built a military base here. Ecuador granted access to protect the Panama Canal from potential Axis threats. Isla Baltra’s strategic location proved ideal. The base bustled with activity in the war’s early years. After the Battle of Midway in 1942, the threat lessened. By war’s end, only a small American presence remained on Isla Baltra.
The Isla Baltra air base was quite impressive. It included an airstrip, military installations, a bowling alley and even a movie theatre. This theatre screened the latest Hollywood films. Prostitutes even came from Panama and bars served rowdy soldiers. About 1,500 Ecuadorians worked there. Tensions sometimes flared between the servicemen and the Ecuadorians. They were denied access to certain amenities. After one Ecuadorian died, the Ecuadorians were allowed into the commissary. Several had become ill after drinking dangerous home-brewed alcohol.
In 1945, the war ended. The Americans gave the Isla Baltra air base to Ecuador. They removed most useful items. Today, little remains of their presence. The Ecuadorian air force maintains the base and airstrip. It now serves as one of two main entry points to the Galápagos by plane. The other airport is near Puerto Baquerizo Moreno on San Cristobal Island.
The land iguanas of Isla Baltra have their own story. In 1932, scientists moved some to North Seymour Island. They wanted to see how they would adapt. They thrived. This proved fortunate. During the war, iguanas on Isla Baltra went extinct. Survivors from North Seymour were bred. They were reintroduced to Isla Baltra in 1991. Today, over 400 iguanas live here. You might spot them near the airport.
Isla Baltra may not have many tourist sites. But its history and unique landscape make it a memorable starting point. The airport has gift shops. The military base is closed to visitors. From here, you will be whisked away. Ferries and buses await you. They will take you to Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island.
Before you leave Isla Baltra, take a moment. Think about its past. Consider its role in protecting the Panama Canal. Remember the iguanas’ incredible survival story. Isla Baltra is more than just an airport. It’s a testament to resilience, adaptation, and the enduring spirit of the Galápagos.