Marvelous aren’t they the capitals inside the Igreja de Sao Cristovao de Rio Mau? This unassuming church in Vila do Conde is more than meets the eye. It’s a relic a testament to Portugal’s rich Romanesque heritage. Standing before the Igreja de Sao Cristovao de Rio Mau you see the enduring legacy of a monastery founded in the 11th century. Only the church remains a survivor of time’s relentless march. Designated a National Monument in 1910 the Igreja de Sao Cristovao de Rio Mau whispers tales of monks and masons.
The earliest record of the Rio Mau monastery dates back to 1103. Construction of the current church began in 1151 as an inscription in the apse proudly proclaims. This reconstruction wasn’t a single event. It unfolded in stages absorbing various artistic influences. The apse the first part built shows a strong Galician influence. The capitals inside are particularly exquisite. They depict scenes many now difficult to interpret fully. Among them are jugglers medieval musician-poets playing instruments.
By the late 12th and early 13th centuries the nave and western sections were added. These parts including the portals reflect Portuguese Benedictine Romanesque style. In 1443 the monastery was dissolved. Its assets passed to the nearby Sao Simao da Junqueira Monastery. This transfer likely contributed to the church’s survival even as the conventual buildings fell into ruin.
Let’s examine the portals. These aren’t just entrances. They are artistic masterpieces. The north portal displays a sculpted tympanum. It shows a dragon and a griffin locked in combat possibly symbolizing the struggle between Jesus and the devil. The main portal’s tympanum is even more complex. A bishop perhaps Saint Augustine given the monastery’s Augustinian affiliation is shown blessing his flock. He’s flanked by deacons and smaller figures a bird with a sun and a siren holding a moon. These symbols are associated with Saint Augustine.
The church’s nave has a unique wooden roof. The apse boasts a barrel vault. Inside the apse the visitor will find an Agnus Dei with a cross in a bas-relief at the same height as the exterior portal. Restoration efforts throughout the 20th century have ensured the Igreja de Sao Cristovao de Rio Mau endures. The church continues to serve as a parish church a vital part of the community. So next time you are in Vila do Conde remember this little church a true treasure of Romanesque architecture.