Did you notice how this Iglesia de Santiago y San Juan Bautista doesn’t quite resemble a typical religious building? Its story is etched in Madrid’s very foundations. We are standing on hallowed ground. The location once housed one of Madrid’s oldest churches. It appeared in city law books as early as 1202.
However, the original church met its end. It was destroyed and rebuilt in the 19th century. Juan Antonio Cuervo was the architect. He was an assistant to Ventura Rodríguez. Cuervo designed it in the Neoclassical style.
King Joseph I ordered the demolition in 1810. He wanted open spaces around the Royal Palace. Construction on the current Iglesia de Santiago y San Juan Bautista began in 1811. It became the successor to two former parishes. They were the Church of San Juan Bautista and the Church of Santiago. Many important works were moved here. Sadly, Velázquez’s tomb was lost. He had been buried in the former Church of San Juan.
Notice the building’s materials. It is made of brick and granite. These are traditional materials in Madrid architecture. The facade is simple. It features triglyphs. The upper section has an arched window. Above the entrance is a relief. It depicts Santiago Matamoros in the Battle of Clavijo. The Apostle James appeared in the sky during this battle. He was on his white horse. He aided the Christian troops of Don Ramiro. Don Ramiro was the King of Asturias in the year 845. Look for the scallop shells. They are symbols of the pilgrims. They are on the windows below. Also note the crosses of the Order of Santiago.
Inside the Iglesia de Santiago y San Juan Bautista, observe the Greek cross layout. A large central space sits beneath the cupola. The presbytery is semicircular. The church boasts artworks from its predecessors. Francisco Rizi’s painting of Santiago Matamoros is a highlight. It dominates the main altar. The agitated style possibly reflects the influence of Rubens.
Juan Carreño de Miranda’s Baptism of Christ is another gem. It hangs to the right of the main altar. You might recognize it from Ponz’s description of San Juan Bautista parish. Also admire the San Juan Niño. This baroque sculpture is attributed to Pedro Roldán. You can also see the Virgen de la Esperanza by Francisco Bellver. The Iglesia de Santiago y San Juan Bautista holds treasures.
Notably, the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage starts here. Pilgrims can obtain their “Credencial” in the sacristy. This document confirms their pilgrim status. It was a safe passage in the Middle Ages. The church also organizes pilgrim gatherings monthly. They give out the Santiagueña Matritense. It is a Compostela for the Madrid leg of the journey.
As you leave the Iglesia de Santiago y San Juan Bautista, remember its dual role. It is a place of worship. It is also the starting point for a spiritual journey. This unassuming building is a cornerstone of Madrid’s history. It is a beacon for pilgrims setting out on their own path.