Hwyangrobong

One crisp autumn morning in 1897, a grand procession snaked its way through the heart of Seoul towards Hwyangrobong. Hwyangrobong wasn’t just a hill. It was a newly constructed shrine complex, a stage for a pivotal moment in Korean history. King Gojong, resplendent in a golden dragon robe, ascended the platforms of Hwyangrobong to perform the Rite of Heaven. This ancient ritual, reserved for Sons of Heaven, declared Gojong’s ascension and the birth of the Korean Empire. Hwyangrobong pulsed with the energy of a nation reborn. The coronation site at Hwyangrobong was a marvel, built in just ten days by a thousand workers. Three tiered platforms rose towards the sky, sheltered by a golden awning and encircled by a granite wall. The Independent, a Korean newspaper, captured the scene. They described the colorful ceremony, the battalions of soldiers, and the King’s golden kite fluttering in the wind. The ceremony at Hwyangrobong marked a bold declaration of independence. It was a moment etched into Korea’s memory. Yet, Hwyangrobong also held a quieter, more enduring tribute. A few years later, Hwanggungu, a three-storied octagonal shrine, was erected on Hwyangrobong. It commemorated Taejo, the founder of the Joseon dynasty. Hwyangrobong stood as a symbol of both past and future. Sadly, the coronation site at Hwyangrobong didn’t last. The Japanese colonial government demolished it in 1913, replacing it with a hotel. Hwanggungu remains. It stands as a testament to Korea’s enduring spirit, a silent witness to the echoes of history that resonate around Hwyangrobong. Today, access to the interior of Hwanggungu at Hwyangrobong is restricted. The gate, once removed and forgotten, now stands in its rightful place. Three stone drums, decorated with dragons, remain near Hwanggungu, commemorating Gojong’s reign. Hwyangrobong, a place of coronation and commemoration, whispers its stories to those who listen.