Hotoji

Deep within Kyoto’s Fushimi ward, nestled near the iconic Fushimi Inari Shrine, lies the often-overlooked Hotoji Temple. Hotoji doesn’t boast the vibrant red torii gates of its famous neighbor. It doesn’t draw the same crowds. Yet, within its serene grounds, Hotoji Temple holds a captivating history waiting to be unearthed. Hotoji began its life as Gokuraku-ji Temple, a Shingon sect temple founded by Fujiwara no Mototsune. This early history even finds a place in literary lore, mentioned in “Fujino Uraba,” a chapter in the renowned “Tale of Genji.” Imagine courtiers and nobles making their pilgrimages to this very spot. However, Hotoji’s story took a dramatic turn in 1307. The temple’s abbot, losing a theological debate with Nichijou Shonin, a disciple of Nichiren, was so moved that he converted to the Nichiren sect. Gokuraku-ji was reborn as Hotoji, a Nichiren temple. The name itself, Hotoji, meaning “burial ground temple,” hints at a unique aspect of its history. It is believed that the remains of prominent Nichiren sect figures, including Nichiren himself, Nichiro, and Nichizo, were interred here. The temple’s grounds offer a tangible link to this past. Here at Hotoji, you can see the oldest tahoto pagoda in all of Kyoto. The main hall, designated an Important Cultural Property, stands as a testament to the temple’s enduring significance. These structures survived even the tumultuous Onin War, a period of intense conflict that ravaged Kyoto and left many temples in ruins. Hotoji, though scarred by the war, was later revived by Nichigin in 1590, ensuring its legacy continued. While overshadowed by its more famous neighbor, Hotoji Temple offers a glimpse into a rich and layered history, interwoven with literature, religious shifts, and resilience in the face of adversity. It stands as a quiet reminder of the hidden treasures that await those who venture off the beaten path in Kyoto.