Amidst the bustling energy of Hanoi, a silent sentinel stands watch over Hoan Kiem Lake. This is Hoa Phong Tower, a weathered testament to a bygone era. Hoa Phong Tower may appear unassuming at first glance, yet its story is deeply intertwined with Hanoi’s rich history. The tower is not a standalone structure, as some might believe. It is the last vestige of the once-grand Bao An Pagoda. This pagoda, built in 1740, sprawled over 100 acres and boasted 235 rooms. Imagine a bustling religious center, a hub of activity and spiritual devotion. This was Bao An Pagoda in its prime.
The 19th century brought upheaval. The French army occupied Hanoi and transformed the pagoda into a logistics headquarters. The sacred statues vanished. The vibrant halls fell silent. The pagoda’s grounds were steadily consumed by the expanding city. By 1889, only Hoa Phong Tower remained. Today, as you gaze upon Hoa Phong Tower, you’re seeing more than just bricks and mortar. You are looking at a survivor. This three-tiered square tower, constructed of exposed brick, bears the marks of time. Its design is unique, unlike typical Buddhist pagodas. The first tier, larger and taller than the others, has arched doors facing each cardinal direction. This earned it the nickname “Four-Gate Tower.” Each door is inscribed with Confucian values: Bao Phuc (Preserving Happiness), Bao An (Preserving Peace), Bao Duc (Preserving Virtue), and Bao Nghia (Preserving Justice).
Look closer at the second tier. Notice the square pillars at each corner. These once held statues of mythical Nghe creatures, all facing east towards the rising sun. The third tier proudly displays the sign “Hoa Phong Thap,” and atop the tower sits a stone gourd, a symbol of blessings in both Buddhism and Taoism. Hoa Phong Tower stands as a poignant reminder of Hanoi’s layered past. It whispers tales of devotion and destruction, resilience and remembrance. This unassuming tower connects us to a vanished world, urging us to cherish the fragments of history that remain. So, next time you find yourself by Hoan Kiem Lake, take a moment to appreciate Hoa Phong Tower. It’s more than just a photo opportunity. It’s a tangible link to Hanoi’s enduring spirit.