How about we pause here a moment? This is Hieidaira. Hieidaira is a neighborhood in Otsu, Japan.
Hieidaira sits 350 meters above sea level. It is home to 2,567 residents as of October 1, 2020. You’ll find it nestled on the slopes of Mount Hiei.
Mount Hiei stands to the northeast of Kyoto. It marks the border between Kyoto and Shiga Prefectures. Ancient geomancy considered its position a protective shield against negative influences on Kyoto.
Enryaku-ji temple significantly shaped Mount Hiei’s history. Saichō founded it in 788. It became the first outpost for the Japanese Tendai sect of Buddhism.
Enryaku-ji grew into a large temple complex. It was divided into three main areas. These are the Saitō or West Pagoda area. Then there is the Tōdō or East Pagoda area. Finally, there is the Yokawa or Along the river area.
The Tōdō area is where Enryaku-ji Temple was first founded. Ennin later revived the Yokawa area. Ryōgen further revived it. Genshin made it famous as a scholar-monk.
Many influential figures have roots in Mount Hiei. Hōnen, Nichiren, Dōgen, and Shinran all studied at Enryaku-ji. They later left to establish their own Buddhist practices.
Oda Nobunaga razed the temple complex in 1571. He aimed to suppress the Tendai’s warrior monks’ rising power. The temple was rebuilt. It remains the Tendai headquarters to this day.
Mount Hiei even lent its name to a 19th-century Japanese ironclad. A World War II-era battleship also carried the name Hiei.
Folklore is rich around Mount Hiei. It was initially thought to be the home of Shinto gods and demons. Over time, it became known for its Buddhist monks from Enryaku-ji.
Marathon monks are a unique aspect of Mount Hiei. They walk great distances. This practice is known as kaihōgyō. John Stevens chronicled this in his book.
Some monks undertake the sennichi kaihōgyō. This involves 1,000 days of walking meditation and prayer. It spans seven years around Mount Hiei. They walk up to 26 miles a day. They walk for periods of 100 or 200 consecutive days. The total distance is about the same as walking around the Earth.
Mount Hiei offers stunning views. You can see Kyoto, Ohara, Lake Biwa, and Shiga. The temple complex of Enryaku-ji is a major draw. Minor temples and shrines dot the area.
Interestingly, there are also French-themed attractions. The peak features the Garden Museum Hiei. It is themed on French impressionism. There is also a French-themed hotel, L’hotel de Hiei.
Hikers often visit the mountain. A toll road provides access by car. Buses also run to the top. Funiculars offer another route. The Eizan Cable runs from Kyoto. The Sakamoto Cable runs from Shiga.
Buses connect the attractions. The bus center is in front of the main temple complex at Tō-tō.
Kyoto itself boasts a rich history. Emperor Kanmu chose it as Japan’s imperial court in 794. The city was originally named Heian-kyō. Emperors ruled from Kyoto until 1869.
Kyoto avoided large-scale destruction during World War II. Its prewar cultural heritage remains largely intact.
Today, Kyoto is Japan’s cultural capital. It houses numerous temples, shrines, palaces, and gardens. UNESCO has designated some as World Heritage Sites.
Hieidaira offers a unique blend of natural beauty. It is a place steeped in history and spiritual significance.