“Honoring the king,” that’s the meaning of Bongeunsa. This Korean Buddhist temple stands in Samseong-dong. It is in the Gangnam District of Seoul. Let me share its story.
Bongeunsa was founded in 794. State Preceptor Yeonhoe established it. Yeonhoe was the highest-ranking monk of Silla. The temple was first named Gyeonseongsa. It sits on Sudo Mountain’s slope. Look across the street. You will see the COEX Mall.
During the Joseon period, Buddhism was suppressed. But Bongeunsa began to be known. It was reconstructed in 1498. Queen Jeonghyeon supported it. She prayed for King Seongjong’s eternal life.
Queen Munjeong revived Buddhism briefly. In the mid-16th century, Bongeunsa became the main Seon temple. This was from 1551 through 1936. Monk Bou was appointed head of the temple in 1548. However, anti-Buddhist factions regained power. Bou was killed. From 1552 to 1564, Bongeunsa was the center. It was the center of the Buddhist National Exam.
In 1902, Bongeunsa became one of Korea’s 14 major temples. During the Japanese occupation, it led 80 smaller temples. In 1922 and 1929, Head Monk Cheongho saved over 700 people. They were drowning in the Han River. A monument recognizes this act. After colonial rule, Bongeunsa joined the Jogye Order. This is Korea’s largest Buddhist sect.
A fire in 1939 destroyed most buildings. More destruction happened during the Korean War. But Panjeon survived. It holds woodblock carvings of the Flower Garland Sutra. Monk Yeonggi created these in 1855. The temple has been repaired and renovated. It is now a large complex once again. Reconstruction continues today.
Bongeunsa is a notable tourist destination. It offers a Temple Stay program. Visitors experience a monk’s life. They can experience baru gongyang. This is a Buddhist temple meal. It uses a baru rice bowl used by monks.
The Jinyeomun Gate houses peculiar Sacheonwang paintings. These are the Four Heavenly Kings. Past this gate, you will see a stupa field. It honors prominent monks. They once called Bongeunsa home.
Pass under the Beopwang Dharma hall. Enter the main temple courtyard. Straight ahead is the Daeung-jeon Hall. A three-tier stone pagoda stands in front. Inside the hall is a triad of statues. Seokgamoni-bul is in the center. He is the Historical Buddha. Yaksayeorae-bul is on one side. He is the Medicine Buddha. Amita-bul is on the other side. He is the Buddha of the Western Paradise. These statues symbolize life’s cycle.
To the left of the main hall are the monks’ dorms. The historic Seonbul-dang Hall is to the right. It formerly held the monks’ exam. Now, it seems to be the Gwaneeum-jeon Hall. Gwanseeum-bosal rests on the main altar. This is the Bodhisattva of Compassion.
To the far right of the main hall is the Jijang-jeon Hall. Its exterior walls have murals. They show the Buddhist underworld. You can see the Ten Kings of the Underworld. Jijang-bosal is also present. He is the Bodhisattva of the Afterlife. Inside, the walls have murals of the Ten Kings. A Gamno-do mural hangs on the left wall. A green-haired statue of Jijang-bosal sits on the main altar.
To the right of the main hall is the Yeongsan-jeon Hall. The Bukgeukbo-jeon Hall is in the center. It honors Chilseong. These are the Seven Stars. The Yeong-gak Hall houses murals. They honor master monks.
The twenty-three-meter-tall Mireuk-bul is the crown jewel. This is the Future Buddha. He looks out on Seoul. Vajra Warriors protect him. The Mireuk-jeon Hall fronts the statue. Lights illuminate it at night. Bongeunsa combines history, art, and spirituality. It offers a peaceful escape in bustling Gangnam.