“A curious thing happened here” I began my story. “In the heart of Madrid’s Chamberí district stands the Glorieta del Pintor Sorolla. It wasn’t always called that you know. Once upon a time it was simply known as Plaza de la Iglesia.”
The Glorieta del Pintor Sorolla wasn’t always a glorieta. It’s a roundabout. Its history is woven with the story of the Church of Santa Teresa and Santa Isabel. Construction began on October 22 1842. It took fourteen long years to complete. The architect José María Aguilar y Vela oversaw this ambitious project. The church was dedicated to the Conception initially. It was an annex to the parish of San José.
Think of the bustling activity surrounding its construction. Neighborly contributions funded the initial stages. Later fundraising included theatrical performances even a bullfight attended by the queen herself. Chroniclers Peñasco and Cambronero noted the lack of architectural distinction. They are on record saying it was unassuming. Another anecdote involves the liberal activist priest Merino. He was condemned for an attempted assassination of Queen Isabella II. Passing the church on his way to execution he commented on its uneven foundation.
The church tragically faced destruction in 1936. It was later rebuilt between 1942 and 1950. This time José María Garma Zubizarreta was the architect. It’s a neoclassical style. The original church housed paintings by Luis Taberner. There was also a famous image of the Virgin of Buenavista. The erudite Basilio Sebastián Castellanos donated this image in the mid-19th century.
The Glorieta del Pintor Sorolla has witnessed a lot. A temporary theatre Lux Edén operated there for over a decade. It was demolished to make way for printing workshops. This industry was a significant part of the area’s character then. This place also hosts a metro station. The first section of Line 1 opened on October 17 1919. It connected Sol and Cuatro Caminos.
The name Glorieta del Pintor Sorolla appeared in the 1960s. It honors the famous Valencian painter Joaquín Sorolla. His work celebrates light and the Mediterranean Sea. His style includes seascapes outdoor scenes and portraits. The Glorieta del Pintor Sorolla today is a place of quiet contemplation. But it also shows the vibrant history of the neighborhood. It is a place where history and art converge. It is a place to remember.