“A playful king deserves a playful gallery.” That’s what Felipe II might have thought when he commissioned the Galer\u00eda de las Burlas.
This gallery is also known as La Lonja or Grutas de Felipe II. It stands as a testament to Renaissance artistry. The Galer\u00eda de las Burlas is located in the Casa de Campo. This was once a royal site and is now Madrid’s largest public park. Felipe II ordered its construction in the 16th century. He envisioned it as a landscape and recreational element within the gardens of El Reservado. It mirrored the artificial grottoes popular during the Renaissance.
The Galer\u00eda de las Burlas is the most artistically significant example of these structures in the Spanish Renaissance. It gained protection in 2010 when the Casa de Campo was declared a Bien de Inter\u00e9s Cultural. Sadly, it is partially preserved and in poor condition.
Construction began in 1567. This was six years after Felipe II acquired the Casa de Campo. He transformed the area into a network of gardens, forests, and orchards. Juan Bautista de Toledo conceived the landscape plan. He likely designed the grottoes as well. Juan Antonio Sormano, Juan Bautista Bonanome, and Jer\u00f3nimo Carruba were among the Italian engineers and artists involved. Sormano and Bonanome handled the decorations. Carruba oversaw the fountains inside.
In the 18th century, dwellings for guards and gardeners were built atop the grottoes. King Jos\u00e9 I Bonaparte ordered their demolition in the early 19th century. He resided in the Casa de Campo and felt they compromised his security.
In 1876, Jos\u00e9 Segundo de Lema demolished one of the two halls. He built a neo-Mud\u00e9jar guard post on the site. This still stands near the Puerta del Casta\u00f1o.
Archaeological excavations between 2007 and 2010 revealed its original layout. They documented construction details and hydraulic mechanisms. Structural consolidation focused on the deteriorated vaults in 2009. A wooden roof was added for weather protection.
The Comunidad de Madrid declared the Casa de Campo a Bien de Inter\u00e9s Cultural in 2010. The Galer\u00eda de las Burlas, along with the Palacio de los Vargas, is intended for cultural or museological use. This use should relate to the historical site.
The Galer\u00eda de las Burlas once facilitated the transition between the formal gardens and the undergrowth. It was a rectangular space about 30 meters wide and over 7 meters high. It had a bi-absidal plan covered with slate roofs. Five vaulted sections were supported by columns of the Tuscan order.
The eastern side opened to the gardens through five large portals. The western side delved into the earth like a cave. The interior was richly decorated to mimic natural caves. Materials included corals, shells, and mosaics made from brick fragments and glass. Hidden hydraulic conduits created springs, cascades, and water games. One notable feature was a coral fountain by Nicol\u00e1s de Aragona.
Each section had a specific theme and name. The Sala de las Burlas featured hidden water jets that surprised visitors. The Sala del Mosaico likely contained mosaics. The Gruta de Neptuno, named after the God of the Waters, housed the Fuente R\u00fastica. It featured statues of Neptune, Venus, and Diana.
Today, only two and a part of a third of the original five sections remain. No interior decorations survive. The Galer\u00eda de las Burlas stands as a reminder of Felipe II’s playful side. It shows his love for gardens and innovative design. Though time has taken its toll, its historical significance endures. It invites us to imagine the laughter and wonder it once inspired.