“Such vibrant tiles! Imagine finding these in a public bathhouse.”
We are standing before the captivating Funaoka Onsen, an establishment where history and relaxation intertwine. You might be surprised to know that while it carries “Onsen” in its name, Funaoka Onsen isn’t a natural hot spring. This beloved bathhouse utilizes heated water and earned its onsen title in a unique way. The story begins in 1923, not as a public bathhouse, but as a high-end restaurant and inn known as Funaoka-ro. Fast forward to 1933, Funaoka-ro introduced a groundbreaking innovation: Japan’s first electric bath. This technological advancement, a novelty at the time, earned Funaoka Onsen official recognition from the government, allowing it to proudly adopt the onsen title.
The building itself stands as a testament to its rich past. Upon entering, cast your gaze upwards to the intricate latticed ceiling, a “Go-tenjo” design typically reserved for the most opulent spaces. This detail harks back to Funaoka Onsen’s days as a luxurious inn, a legacy further enhanced by the presence of rare Majolica tiles. These vibrant tiles, originating from the island of Mallorca, adorn the walls, their colorful, embossed designs a rare and captivating sight. Look closely, and you’ll discover intricate carvings that whisper tales of Kyoto’s past. A scene of Ushiwaka-maru learning swordsmanship from a Tengu, a mythical creature said to inhabit Mt. Kurama, decorates the changing room ceiling. The “ranma,” the transom above the entrance, boasts intricate fretwork that took artisans a decade to complete. These panels depict scenes of celebration and local festivals, offering a glimpse into the heart of Kyoto’s cultural tapestry.
Funaoka Onsen invites you to step back in time, to experience the charm and elegance of old-world Japan while enjoying a relaxing soak. As you leave the soothing waters of Funaoka Onsen, carry with you the echoes of laughter, the stories whispered by the tiles, and the spirit of a bygone era.