Ertholmene

Gazing out at the Baltic, a scattering of islands rise like stone sentinels. These are the Ertholmene, also known as Christiansø. Ertholmene, Denmark’s easternmost point, lies just 18 km northeast of Bornholm. This small archipelago, only 39 hectares in total, holds a captivating blend of natural beauty and historical intrigue. The three main islands, Christiansø, Frederiksø, and Græsholm, each possess a distinct character. Christiansø, the largest, bears the name of King Christian V. It’s a place where the remnants of a fishing settlement intertwine with imposing fortifications. These fortifications once protected the islands from maritime threats. Frederiksø, named after King Frederick IV, offers a tranquil escape, a haven for those seeking serenity amidst nature’s embrace. Græsholm, a sanctuary for diverse bird species, stands as a testament to the archipelago’s ecological importance. It’s an uninhabited bird reserve, home to thriving colonies of common eider, red-breasted merganser, gulls, common murre, and razorbill. Ertholmene’s history is deeply rooted in the Danish-Swedish conflicts of the 17th century. Recognizing the need for a naval stronghold in the Baltic Sea, Denmark established a fortress on Christiansø and Frederiksø in 1684. This fortress served as a vital outpost for the Danish Navy until 1855. Christiansø Church, initially built for the garrison, stands as a reminder of this military past. During the Gunboat War, the islands’ population swelled to 829 inhabitants, primarily soldiers. Today, many of the historical buildings provide homes for the local community. Some are rented to summer visitors, allowing them to experience a unique slice of history. Interestingly, Ertholmene’s appearance has remained largely unchanged for over three centuries. Thick granite walls, punctuated by old cannons facing seaward, encircle Christiansø, creating a timeless tableau. Store Tårn, a former part of the fortress, has served as Christiansø Lighthouse for two centuries. Lille Tårn, a small round tower on Frederiksø, now houses a museum. Ertholmene’s unique administrative status sets it apart. It is state-owned, governed by an administrator appointed by the Ministry of Defence, and belongs to neither a municipality nor a region. The islands thrive on tourism, welcoming around 45,000 visitors annually, mostly day-trippers from Bornholm. They come to explore the islands’ history, wander through its charming streets, soak in the breathtaking sea views, and savor the fresh seafood for which the area is known. Ertholmene also beckons sailors and yacht enthusiasts, drawn to its pristine waters, picturesque landscapes, and favorable sailing conditions.