Ermita de San Roque

Gazing at the unassuming exterior of the Ermita de San Roque, you’d never guess the treasures it holds. This small, recently restored hermitage is a true symbol of the historic Fuencarral district. The Ermita de San Roque houses one of only three Mudéjar coffered ceilings left in Madrid. Rescued from a state of decay by the Madrid City Council, this 16th-century sanctuary is now a centerpiece of Madrid Nuevo Norte. This urban regeneration project will feature a green axis connecting the city to El Pardo. The Ermita de San Roque’s most striking feature is undoubtedly its intricate coffered ceiling. Also known as “lazo ceilings,” these wooden wonders are a hallmark of Mudéjar architecture. This uniquely Spanish style blends Christian construction with Islamic techniques and forms. The Ermita de San Roque’s ceiling is a masterpiece of geometric patterns, crafted by highly skilled artisans. It covers the entire interior space, a rarity even among Mudéjar hermitages. Architect Pedro Ponce de León, who led the restoration, noted the ceiling’s complex geometry and precise wood joinery. He compared the Ermita de San Roque’s ceiling to those of Santa María la Blanca and San Nicolás de los Servitas, both 15th-century churches. While those are grander in scale, the Ermita de San Roque’s ceiling uniquely spans the entire sanctuary. The restoration itself was a feat of preservation. The team worked tirelessly to stabilize the ceiling without dismantling it. They tackled water damage, rot, insect infestations, and the soot from years of neglect. Wherever possible, original materials were preserved. New pinewood, matching the original, was used for replacements. A chemical treatment protected the wood, and a decorative finish blended the old and new sections. The central part of the ceiling, the “almizate,” was meticulously reconstructed based on surviving fragments. Surprisingly, the ceiling is believed to be older than the Ermita de San Roque itself. It was likely transported from another building, requiring adjustments to the hermitage’s walls. Those walls, made of brick and mud-filled stone boxes, were also carefully restored. During the restoration, hidden within the apse’s niches, were statues of saints. These, likely concealed in haste, were carefully removed for restoration. Among them, a statue of San Antón, attributed to the school of Alonso Berruguete, is considered especially valuable. The Ermita de San Roque likely stood as a solitary landmark in the Fuencarral landscape from the 17th or 18th century. A small room attached to the apse may have served as a lazaretto for the sick, or perhaps housing for the hermitage’s custodian. Dedicated to San Roque, the patron saint of the sick, it’s likely the hermitage sheltered travelers and pilgrims on the route to Santiago de Compostela. The 16th century, when the Ermita de San Roque was built, was plagued by droughts, floods, and epidemics. In 1507, the city of Madrid made a perpetual vow to San Roque for protection, a testament to his importance during times of hardship.