Here stand the weathered stones of the Ermita de San Pelayo y San Isidoro de Ávila. This hermitage whispers tales of faith, relocation and rediscovery. Originally built in Ávila, Spain, this Romanesque church stood outside the city walls. It faced the Gate of Malaventura on the south side.
Let’s step back in time. Imagine Ávila in the 12th century. The Ermita de San Pelayo y San Isidoro was a place of worship. It was first dedicated to Saint Pelagius. A document from 1250 mentions the church being exempt from tax. A tombstone, dated 1270, reveals a consecration inscription. Historians believe this may indicate a second consecration. The dedication might have shifted to Saint Isidore at that time.
Now, fast forward to the 19th century. The church belonged to the Association of Farm Workers. It was likely during this period that the patronage changed to Saint Isidore. Around 1854, the building suffered significant damage. The City Council ordered the Association to demolish it. Instead, the Association offered the temple to the City Council. The offer was declined.
Then came the Spanish confiscation in 1876. The church was demolished in 1877. Its remains were sold to private individuals. A neighbor from Ávila bought most of the stones. Emiliano Rotondo Nicolau, an engineer and businessman from Madrid, purchased the remaining ashlars and architectural elements.
Rotondo Nicolau tried to sell the ruins to the City Hall of San Sebastian. The attempt failed. However, in 1893, he sold the ruins to the Real Academia de la Historia for 18000 pesetas. The church found a new home in the gardens of the Museo Arqueológico. The plan was to showcase it as a Romanesque relic. It was also intended to be a chapel for Mozarabic Rite Mass every Sunday.
That vision never fully materialized. In 1897, Cánovas del Castillo took an interest in the monument. The museum ceded it to the City Hall of Madrid. The city ordered its relocation to the Buen Retiro Park. The architect Ricardo Velázquez Bosco oversaw the project.
The Ermita de San Pelayo y San Isidoro found a pleasant spot. It was near the intersection of O’Donnell and Menéndez Pelayo. It was close to the Montaña Artificial. Surrounded by greenery and old trees, it could have been a romantic ruin. However, it faced further neglect.
Finally, in the early 21st century, the City Council of Madrid took action. They tidied up the area. They recovered scattered stones capitals shafts and cornices. Today you see the result of those efforts.
The hermitage was constructed with rectangular limestone ashlars. It featured a single nave with a wooden roof. The head was semicircular with a semi-dome. The straight section had a barrel vault divided into two parts. The architectural style and decorative motifs link it to other churches in Ávila. These are San Vicente, San Pedro and San Andrés. The construction likely dates back to the mid-12th century.
Two doors once graced the nave one to the south and one to the west. Remains of one door show three midpoint archivolts. These rest on abacuses joined to form an impost. The impost is carved with four-petal roses inscribed in circles. The archivolts also featured these rosettes. Capitals displayed zoomorphic and vegetal decorations. Acanthus leaves are still visible despite the deterioration.
Three semicircular windows once adorned the apse. Two remain as evidence. They reveal deep splays ending in narrow arrowslits. The archivolts rest on abacuses and capitals. These were decorated with leaves and birds. The birds had their beaks between their legs similar to those in the Iglesia de San Andrés of Ávila. Drawings show blind arches in the straight section. Their capitals were decorated with plants lions and birds. Experts suggest the same workshops that carved San Pedro and San Vicente also worked on this hermitage.
So, as you stand before these ruins remember the journey. The Ermita de San Pelayo y San Isidoro has traveled through time and space. It stands as a testament to faith art and the enduring power of history.