Rising majestically before you stands the Église de la Conversion de Saint-Paul a testament to Lille’s rich history. This imposing neo-Romanesque structure wasn’t always here. Its story begins long before the red bricks were laid.
The present church is actually the third iteration of the parish church for Wazemmes. The first stood on what is now Place Philippe-de-Girard. That one was eventually sold as national property and demolished. The second was erected between 1821 and 1824. It became inadequate as the population boomed. The need for a larger church led to the construction of the magnificent building we see today.
Built between 1854 and 1857 by architect Pierre Caloine the Église de la Conversion de Saint-Paul is a stunning example of Northern French church architecture. Its dimensions are breathtaking. It stretches 76 meters long and 41 meters wide. The vault soars 20 meters high supported by 14 colossal columns each weighing an astounding 15000 kilograms. The steeple adds another 59 meters to its height.
The church’s construction was a community effort. Funding came from the city of Lille after Wazemmes was incorporated into it in 1858. The parish council also contributed. Originally plans called for demolishing seven houses to create a new square in front of the church. This however never happened. A new street Rue Saint-Pierre et Saint-Paul was the only change.
Sadly the Église de la Conversion de Saint-Paul has endured significant damage over the years. Both World Wars left their mark. German artillery hit its steeple in 1914. A bomb destroyed the stained glass windows the organ and much of the interior in 1940. The church remained open for worship even without a roof. Reconstruction began only in the early 1950s.
Even more recently the church suffered partial damage in a fire. The fire started in the sacristy. The blaze serves as a reminder of the vulnerability of these beautiful structures to the ravages of time and unforeseen events.
Today the Église de la Conversion de Saint-Paul stands proud. It’s a vibrant place of worship housing an impressive collection of art. Among these is a painting of the Conversion of Saint Paul by Jéréme Cartellier. This artwork originally graced the chapel of the Lille citadel. It now occupies a place of honour here adding to the spiritual and artistic richness of this magnificent building. The crypts beneath the church are not for the dead but home to fencing clubs that practice their art where once the church kept fuel for its furnace.
The Église de la Conversion de Saint-Paul isn’t just a church it’s a living monument. It reflects not just faith but also the resilience and community spirit of Lille. It stands as a powerful symbol of the city’s history. It offers a fascinating glimpse into the past. It continues to serve as a beacon of hope and faith for generations to come.