Beneath our feet lies a tale of transformation. Dongsi Subdistrict in Beijing. It’s a place where ancient history meets the hustle of modern life.
Dongsi. The name itself means “Eastern Four”. This refers to the four paifangs, or sign gates, that once marked this very intersection. These gates dated back to the Yuan Dynasty. Imagine them. Towering wooden structures, symbols of a rich and powerful empire. They stood at the crossroads of Dongsi Avenues North, South, and West, and Chaoyangmen Inner Street.
The “Eastern Four” moniker stuck. Even though the sign gates were removed in 1958, the name Dongsi lives on. It’s a testament to the enduring power of history and place.
Today, the Dongsi Station hums with activity. It’s an interchange station on Lines 5 and 6 of the Beijing Subway. Below the surface, countless commuters rush to and fro. Above ground, the spirit of Dongsi persists in its alleyways and buildings.
Dongsi’s history is layered like the sediment of time. In 1912, this area was part of the 3rd Inner District. By 1949, it had become part of Dongcheng District. Subdistricts were created and merged, reflecting the changing administrative landscape. In 1958, Jibei, Batiao, and Xinsi merged to form the Dongsi Subdistrict we know today.
The area even transformed into a commune in 1960. But it was later reinstated as a subdistrict in 1990. These shifts tell a story of political and social change.
Take a stroll through Dongsi’s numbered alleyways, called tiao. These hutongs run east to west. They are numbered in ascending order from south to north. You’ll find Dongsi Toutiao, the first alleyway, all the way up to Dongsi Shisitiao, the fourteenth.
Dongsi Shitiao, the tenth alleyway, has an interesting story. It was extended eastward through an opening in the Beijing city wall. Then it was widened in the 1990s. Today, it’s a main thoroughfare. The Dongsi Shitiao Station on Subway Line 2 marks where the alleyway meets the old city wall.
Here, in Dongsi, time unfolds. In the Ming Dynasty, wooden archways defined the area. They gave Dongsi Archway its name. This meant East Four Archways.
Of the fourteen alleys in Dongsi, six are especially famous. These are Dongsi Santiao, Sitiao, Wutiao, Liutiao, Qitiao, and Batiao. They’re well-preserved glimpses into the past.
Foreign influences have also found their way into Dongsi. Hamburger shops and cafes operate in the narrow alleys. Siheyuan inns, or quadrangle courtyards, offer lodging to tourists. Tiny, unique stores add character to the area.
Dongsi’s hutongs have housed notable figures. Politician Xu Shichang and warlord Duan Qirui lived here during the Republic of China period. Writer and educator Ye Shengtao also called Dongsi home. Former trade minister Sha Qianli lived in the No 55 courtyard of Dongsi Liutiao.
Several sites in Dongsi are recognized for their cultural significance. These include the Chongli Former Residence and the Mianyi Former Residence. The Shaqianli Former Residence and Ye Shengtao’s Former Residence are also protected.
Chongli was a chancellor serving Emperor Guangxu in the late Qing Dynasty. Mian Yi was a high official and imperial family member of Emperor Daoguang. These residences offer a glimpse into the lives of influential people.
Dongsi Mosque stands as a testament to religious diversity. Founded in 1356 and rebuilt in 1447, it is located just south of the intersection.
Today, Dongsi Subdistrict covers an area of 1.42 square kilometers. As of 2020, it has a population of 33,670.
From sign gates to subway lines, Dongsi has continually evolved. Its alleyways echo with the stories of emperors, politicians, and everyday people. As you explore Dongsi, remember that you’re walking through layers of history. They have shaped this unique corner of Beijing.