Donam 1-dong

Whispers of history echo through Donam 1-dong. Here, amidst modern Seoul, the echoes of a Japanese-owned ranch from the colonial era linger. Donam 1-dong wasn’t always part of Seoul’s urban sprawl. Once, it lay outside the city walls, not far from Hyehwamun Gate. During the Japanese occupation, a Catholic Japanese businessman named Hirayama Masazu established a ranch here. He was a complex figure, a dairy farmer, cheese producer, restaurateur, and philanthropist. He also produced a silent film epic in 1931, “The 26 Martyrs of Japan,” partly filmed on his Donam 1-dong ranch. This film, a testament to Hirayama’s Catholic faith, tells the story of martyred priests and laymen in Japan. The ranch, a significant landmark in Donam 1-dong’s history, has faded. Only the basic terrain and roads remain as physical reminders. But the area retains a strong Catholic presence, a legacy of Hirayama’s faith and influence. In the 1930s, the area transformed into a complex of traditional Korean houses, known as “hanok.” This architectural shift added another layer to Donam 1-dong’s rich tapestry. Donam 1-dong holds a special place in the heart of scholar Suk Ji-hoon. He connects this neighborhood to his friend, Peter Bartholomew, a former president of the Royal Asiatic Society Korea, who resided in a hanok in Donam 1-dong. Bartholomew, an advocate for traditional Korean architecture, arrived in Korea in 1968. He never met Hirayama, but Suk uncovered a surprising connection between the two men, further intertwining their stories with Donam 1-dong. Donam 1-dong is a blend of old and new. The modern apartment complexes and older housing stand as a testament to its evolution. The few schools, including a women’s university, contribute to its vibrant atmosphere. Yet, beneath the surface, the whispers of its past, from a Japanese ranch to a hanok village, continue to resonate. They remind us that Donam 1-dong, a seemingly ordinary neighborhood, holds extraordinary stories within its boundaries.