Gazing up at the mountainside, can you believe that “the best view in Kyoto” awaits us? That’s what they say about Daihikaku Senkoji. This Zen temple offers a commanding view of the city. It is a little bit of a hike to get there. Winding stone steps lead to the temple.
Officially named Daihikaku Senkoji, it was once near Seiryo-ji Temple. It served as a prayer hall for Emperor Go-Saga. Over time, it fell into disrepair.
Suminokura Ryoi relocated Daihikaku Senkoji in 1614. He was a merchant and shipper. He dedicated it to workers who died on his waterworks projects. Ryoi even had official permission to send trade ships to Southeast Asia. This was before Japan became a closed country.
In 1808, Daihikaku Senkoji became an Obaku Zen sect temple. This happened when Suminokura descendant Suminokura Gennei completed a renewal. A wooden statue of Suminokura Ryoi was installed. It sits with a stone axe, looking towards the Hozugawa River he created.
The temple faced hardship during the Meiji Restoration. It lost land and treasures. It rebuilt itself after the Meiji period began. A typhoon in 1959 caused great damage. Usage of the main hall stopped in 1978 for safety reasons. The Thousand Arms Kannon statue was moved to the smaller Buddha Hall. Eshin Sozu, also known as Genshin, supposedly created this statue.
The viewing platform, Kyaku-den, makes Daihikaku Senkoji special. The hall juts out from the mountainside. It faces Kyoto. The hall has literature and items to look through. It is supported on stilts. There is a veranda with benches outside. You can sit and enjoy the view. For 500 yen, you can enjoy green tea and sweets. Binoculars help you spot landmarks. On a clear day, you might see Kiyomizu-dera.
Daihikaku Senkoji encourages you to ring their temple bell or Bonsho. Most temple bells are roped off. Here, you can ring it for free. The sound echoes off into the mountains. It makes the silence between rings more potent. Normally, temple bells signal others or mark time.
Ryoi’s Buddhist prayer offering is the main hall that enshrines the principal image of the Thousand-Armed Kannon. There is also a wooden statue of Ryoi wearing a priest’s robe.
The guest house “Daihikaku” is a Kannon hall. It was built on the rock face of the Oi River. It offers a magnificent seasonal view of the Arashiyama gorge. Many writers and artists visited here. Matsuo Basho and Natsume Soseki even featured it in their works.
As we leave Daihikaku Senkoji, remember the merchant. Remember the temple bell. Remember “the best view in Kyoto”.