“Exile can lead to unexpected celebrations” I say. The Colonne du pape Pie VII stands before you. It commemorates Pope Pius VII’s two visits to Nice. These visits occurred in August 1809 and February 1814.
Let’s step back in time. Imagine Napoleon’s men seizing Pope Pius VII in Rome. It was the night of July 5th 1809. They planned to take him secretly to Fontainebleau. The route passed through Nice. However secrecy proved difficult.
Before reaching Nice someone recognized the Pope. This person spread the news throughout Provence. The people of Nice prepared a grand welcome. When the Pope arrived a huge crowd greeted him. People lit up their homes. The Pope was tired from his journey. He stayed in Nice for three days. A room was prepared for him at the Prefecture hotel.
The next day he appeared on the balcony. He blessed the cheering crowd. Fishermen in boats awaited his blessing from the sea. Fireworks lit up the coast.
Years later in February 1814 Pope Pius VII was freed. He was on his way back to Rome. News of his journey spread quickly. People from all over flocked to Nice again. His arrival sparked another celebration of lights and joy. The Pope was touched by the warm welcome. He sent a portrait of himself to the mayor. It was displayed in the Council hall.
The Colonne du pape Pie VII was erected in 1823. It marks these significant visits. The column has some unique features. The coat of arms is not the Pope’s official one. It represents his family the Chiaramonti. The cross has two horizontal branches. It resembles the Cross of Lorraine.
Latin inscriptions adorn the base. They tell the story of the Pope’s visits. One inscription speaks of his “favorable and happy return”. Another describes his entry into Nice. People eagerly pulled his carriage. All of this occurred amidst continuous cheers.
The Colonne du pape Pie VII stands as a testament to a pope’s resilience. It also highlights the warm embrace of the people of Nice. It is a reminder of a time when even in exile a leader could find joyous welcome. It is a classified historical monument since December 26 1906.