You might be staring at it, but what is it? This is the Colonna della Maddalena, one of Milan’s most iconic landmarks. This humble column, known by the Milanese as the Colonna del Diavolo(Devil’s Column), stands in the heart of a small piazza right next to the Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio, a church dedicated to the city’s patron saint.
The story of this column, like many in Italy, blends history with legend. This ancient Roman column, a relic from the second century AD, once played a pivotal role in the coronation of the Kings of Italy. In the Basilica itself, the Emperor-to-be would stand before this very column and swear his obedience to the Pope. The column was then embraced as a symbol of the Emperor’s commitment to justice and his acceptance of the Church’s power. But over time, the historical role of the column faded away, and the people of Milan began to whisper a darker story, entwining the column with the Devil.
They say that this column was once the site of a clash between Saint Ambrose and the Devil himself. It is said that the Devil wanted to tempt St. Ambrose, but the saint, losing patience, kicked the Devil and sent him flying into the column. The Devil, caught and entangled, got stuck there for a day before finally escaping through the holes that his horns had created. These gaping holes at the bottom of the colonna are proof of the Devil’s defeat, according to this lore.
Whatever the truth may be, the Devil’s Column stands as a silent witness to Milan’s history. It is a reminder of centuries of religious fervor, political intrigue, and the enduring power of storytelling. So take a moment, look at this column, and imagine the countless stories that have unfolded before it and imagine the whispers of the Devil himself.