Colegiata de San Isidro

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Dedicated to Madrid’s patron saint, Colegiata de San Isidro rises before us. This impressive Baroque church holds a fascinating history. It was Madrid’s provisional cathedral for over a century. Imagine this very spot filled with worshippers.

Initially, the Colegiata de San Isidro was part of the Jesuit Order. Construction began in 1622, designed by Pedro Sánchez. He worked on it until his death in 1633. Francisco Bautista and Melchor de Bueras completed it in 1664. The church was consecrated in 1651 before completion. It was first dedicated to Saint Francis Xavier. He was a prominent Jesuit.

The Jesuits were expelled in 1767. Two years later, the church was rededicated to Saint Isidore. His relics were moved here from the Church of Saint Andrew. The relics of his wife, Santa María de la Cabeza, were also moved. Ventura Rodríguez reworked the interior. He designed a new high altar and chancel.

In 1885, Madrid became a Roman Catholic Archdiocese. The Colegiata de San Isidro became the pro-cathedral. It held that status until 1993. That year, the Almudena Cathedral was completed. San Isidro then returned to collegiate status.

Tragedy struck in 1936 during the Spanish Civil War. The building caught fire. The dome collapsed. Many artworks were destroyed. This included the Rodríguez high altar and paintings. Luca Giordano Ricci’s paintings vanished in the blaze.

After the war, a meticulous restoration began. Workers recreated original features. A replica of the Rodríguez high altar was made. In the 1960s, Javier Barroso added a new section to the facade towers.

Look closely above the altar in the Chapel to Our Lady of Mount Carmel. You will see the Coat-of-Arms of the United Kingdom. The British Embassy funded its restoration. It is also known as Our Lady of the Sailors Chapel.

The Colegiata’s facade presents a monumental appearance. Note the granite construction. Four Corinthian columns support a sculptural group. San Isidro and Santa María de la Cabeza are depicted.

Inside, the single nave features elaborate chapels. Admire the impressive altarpiece. Observe the ornate cupola. The remains of San Isidro and Santa María de la Cabeza rest here.

The Colegiata de San Isidro stands as a testament to faith and perseverance. Its history reflects Madrid’s own journey. From Jesuit college to pro-cathedral and back, it is a remarkable landmark. Take a moment to appreciate the blend of Baroque artistry. Remember the stories it holds within these walls.

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