“Ever heard of a pagoda hiding in plain sight?” I ask. Chùa Thiên Phúc is right here on Hai Bà Trưng Street. It stands quietly between two buildings. Many locals do not even know it is here. Let me tell you about this special place.
Chùa Thiên Phúc is also known as An Trung Temple. Some call it “Tây Cứ” Temple. Its official name is Thiên Phúc Tự. The temple has been a national architectural and artistic relic since 1988.
Looking at its artifacts and architecture the temple likely dates back to the 19th century. An inscription stone shows it was renovated in 1922. The stone is called “Thiên Phúc Tự bi”.
Chùa Thiên Phúc faces south. It includes a temple for Phật. It also has Điện Thiên Phúc. This is for Mẫu Liễu Hạnh and Trần Hưng Đạo. The temple’s three-entrance gate is made of brick. It has six pillars spaced unevenly. The entrances are arched brick connecting the pillars. Above the main entrance is a relief of two dragons flanking the sun. Below that is a book with the words “Thiên Phúc Tự”.
Điện Thiên Phúc faces the temple courtyard. It is made of brick. The roof is tiled. The roof ridge is decorated with a book. The book has three large Chinese characters. They read “Thiên Phúc Điện”. The building has three compartments in the front. It has two in the back. The rafters are designed in a traditional style. The interior is dimly lit.
Inside Điện Thiên Phúc statues stand on brick pedestals. The most important area is the rear compartment. It is dedicated to Tam Phủ. This includes Liễu Hạnh Mẫu Địa and Mẫu Thoải. Quỳnh Hoa and Quế Hoa stand on either side. There are also statues of Ông Hoàng Ba Ông Hoàng Bảy and Ông Hoàng Mười. Động Sơn Trang is dedicated to Mẫu Nhạc. She oversees 36 forest gates.
Chùa Thiên Phúc honors Hưng Đạo Vương Trần Quốc Tuấn. He was a hero against foreign invaders. The temple is not large. However it has harmonious architecture. Its parts fit together well. There is a balance between architecture and decoration.
The main temple has five compartments. They form a chữ đinh shape. The temple is surrounded by a wall. The roof is tiled. The two sides of the roof are decorated. At the center of the roof are two dragons. They face the sun. They are made of many colorful pieces of porcelain.
Inside the temple the rafters are designed in a traditional style. Two sets of rafters in the central compartment use columns. This creates an open space in the front. Carvings of leaves clouds and dragons decorate the beams. The front compartment leads to the Phật Điện. There is a screen with a late inscription. Two phoenixes face the sun. This is represented by a large daisy.
Two side compartments in the front have altars. One is for Đức Ông. The other is for Giám Trai. A stone stele stands near the right wall. It reads “Thiên Phúc Tự bi”.
Phật Điện is decorated with large statues. They are placed on high pedestals. Three statues of Tam Thế are at the top. Below them is a statue of A Di Đà. Quan Âm and Thế Chí are on either side. The third row has Quan Âm thập nhị thủ. Quan Âm tống tử is on the left. Thái Thượng Lão Quân is on the right. The final row features a Cửu Long altar. Thích Ca sơ sinh is inside. Ngọc Hoàng and Đế Thích are on either side.
Above the Cửu Long altar is a beautiful screen. It is carved with dragons. Below are two pillars carved with dragons. There are also images of a horse carrying the sun and a turtle carrying a book.
Some statues in Chùa Thiên Phúc are made of wood. Others are made of lacquered soil. These are valuable examples of folk art.
Chùa Thiên Phúc has many artifacts. They are diverse in type and material. Most date from the 19th century. Some are from the late Lê period. Others are from the late 18th century. Some are from the early 20th century. They are of high cultural and artistic value.
A pagoda offering peace in a busy city! Chùa Thiên Phúc is definitely worth a visit. It is a place to relax and reflect.