Perhaps you noticed the small piazzetta we’re standing on. This is the Piazzetta dei Cocchieri. It is home to the Chiesa Santa Maria dell’Itria dei Cocchieri. This unassuming church has a fascinating story. It is a testament to the devotion and resourcefulness of Palermo’s coachmen.
The Chiesa Santa Maria dell’Itria dei Cocchieri is more than just a church. It represents the rich history of Palermo. It embodies the spirit of its working class. The church’s origins trace back to 1596. The coachmen of Palermo officially formed a confraternity. These coachmen served the city’s aristocratic families. They played a vital role in Palermo’s society.
Imagine the scene. Holy Friday processions filled the streets. Coachmen marched in groups. Each group represented a major aristocratic family. Transport was banned that day. The coachmen could freely attend the procession. They also pursued Christian virtues. They promoted the cult of Maria SS. Addolorata and Cristo morto. They helped the poor and needy. They cared for the sick.
The coachmen decided to build their own church. It was a place for themselves and their community. They taxed themselves a considerable sum. They began construction in 1596. The Chiesa Santa Maria dell’Itria dei Cocchieri was completed in 1611. It was built on a pre-existing crypt of the Carrettieri confraternity.
The church’s facade is simple and elegant. It reflects the coachmen’s limited resources. It features a marble cartiglio above the entrance. It marks the completion date. The interior is equally modest. It lacks the opulent decorations of wealthier churches.
Inside, the Chiesa Santa Maria dell’Itria dei Cocchieri holds treasures. There are two wooden sculptures. They depict San Riccardo and a beautiful crucifix. San Riccardo is the protector of coachmen. The crucifix expresses deep sorrow in Christ’s face. An anonymous artist likely created these works.
The church also features an icon of the Madonna Odigitria. The name “Odigitria” means “She who leads”. It shows the direction. The Madonna holds a scroll. She indicates it with her right hand. This icon represents the Virgin Mary guiding believers.
However, the true jewel of the Chiesa Santa Maria dell’Itria dei Cocchieri lies beneath. The crypt contains the remains of ninety loculi. These were meant to house the dried bodies of deceased members. Below this lies the “colatoio dei morti”. This was a mummification chamber.
The bodies would decompose here. Liquids drained into a vase below. After decomposition, the remains were moved to the loculi. This process reflects ancient beliefs about death and purification. It links to the idea of a “double death”.
Over the centuries, the Chiesa Santa Maria dell’Itria dei Cocchieri faced challenges. A fire in 1896 destroyed the original Marian Simulacrum. A replica was soon made. The church and its confraternity persevered through these trials.
Today, the Chiesa Santa Maria dell’Itria dei Cocchieri stands as a testament. It testifies to the faith and community of Palermo’s coachmen. It is a reminder of their contributions to the city’s history. It showcases their dedication to both their profession and their faith. Take a moment to appreciate this hidden gem. Consider the stories it holds within its walls.