“Did you know that this small church has been brought back to life?” This is the Chiesa di San Giovanni Decollato. It stands in Palermo’s oldest district on the trapezoid-shaped Piazza San Giovanni Decollato. Palazzo Sclafani and Arco dei Biscottari are nearby.
Once a ruin after the 1943 bombings, the Chiesa di San Giovanni Decollato has been reborn. It was restored in 2010. This church reminds us of medieval Palermo. It sits on a small slope that descends toward the Kemonia River. The river is now underground.
In the late 16th century, a congregation of noblewomen dedicated the church to the Annunziata dello Scutino. Later, the confraternity of San Giovanni della Galca took over. They restored it in 1737. At that time, the church assumed the name San Giovanni Decollato in 1718.
Originally, the Chiesa di San Giovanni Decollato was adorned with 18th-century stuccos. Some are still visible. Only the perimeter structures of the altar and the facade remain from the original building.
The Cappellone has a pentagonal shape. An arch precedes it. The arch features parietal columns decorated with plant motifs and Corinthian capitals.
The main altar has dark stone columns. They hold a simple architrave. Above is an arched window. The exterior facade has a pleasing gabled frontispiece. The crowning cornice features two small bell towers. One on the right has been completely rebuilt. A central oculus lets light into the interior. Once, it held a statue of San Giovanni Battista.
Below the apse of the Chiesa di San Giovanni Decollato, the Kemonia Torrent once flowed. It was known as the “River of bad weather”. In 16. a small marble statue of San Giovanni Battista was placed above the single door of the frontispiece facing north.
Inside, you can find the chapel where the image of the Crucified Christ is venerated. Below it was a marble statue of S. Maria Annunziata with the Angel Gabriel. On the right side is the chapel of San Giovanni Battista with a marble statue. Later, in the 17th century, the statue of San Giovanni Battista was placed on the altar.
Gioacchino Di Marzo wrote in 1873 that two beautiful marble statues of the Virgin Annunziata and Gabriel could still be seen above an altar. Nino Basile wrote in 1936 that the confreres erected a chapel in 1654. On its altar was a beautiful plate with the head of San Giovanni. It was a very valuable work in embossed copper from the old church.
Today, the Chiesa di San Giovanni Decollato is managed by the rectory of the nearby Chiesa di San Francesco Saverio. It hosts exhibitions, shows and conferences. The Chiesa di San Giovanni Decollato also participates in the Biennale Internazionale d’Arte Sacra. This trans-national sacred art exhibition opens its doors to art-related shows and events. The entrance is free. Now, take a moment to appreciate the rebirth of this small treasure in Palermo.