What if these ruins could talk? Here at Piazza Missori stands the crypt of San Giovanni in Conca. It is a testament to Milan’s ever-changing history. San Giovanni in Conca was once a grand basilica. It stood tall as a symbol of faith and power.
Let’s journey back to the 4th century. The basilica of San Giovanni in Conca first emerged. It was in a residential area of the ancient city. Imagine the mosaic pavement. Its remnants reside in Milan’s Archeological Museum.
Fast forward to the 11th century. The church was rebuilt with renewed vigor. But devastation struck in 1162. Frederick Barbarossa’s troops destroyed it. Yet, San Giovanni in Conca rose again in the 13th century. It became the private chapel for the Visconti rulers. Bernabò Visconti connected it to his palace. He was later buried here in a grand monument.
In 1531, Francesco II Sforza gifted the church to the Carmelites. They erected a campanile used as an astronomical observatory. However, the church’s fate took a turn. The Austrians deconsecrated it. The French closed it in the late 18th century.
The late 1800s brought significant changes. In 1879, part of San Giovanni in Conca was cut to make way for Via Mazzini. The Gothic façade was moved to the apse. The Waldensians bought the church. They rebuilt the façade on their new church.
But the story doesn’t end there. In 1949, demolition began. But thankfully it stopped before complete destruction. Only the crypt and apse remains. These ruins now stand as a reminder of San Giovanni in Conca’s past.
Today, you see the crypt. It is the only remaining Romanesque crypt in Milan. It displays archaeological finds illustrating the church’s long history. Above the crypt, the apse walls stand. They feature a single window and blind arches. These are typical of Milanese Romanesque style.
Many artworks once adorned San Giovanni in Conca. The Sforzesco Castle now houses them. These include funerary monuments and Annunciation figures. You can also find Romanesque capitals and 14th-century frescoes there.
San Giovanni in Conca has transformed over centuries. It was a basilica, a chapel, and even a warehouse. It has witnessed wars, renovations, and demolitions. Yet, its legacy lives on in its crypt and the artifacts it once held.
The façade now graces the Waldensian church. The street adjacent to it bears the name Via San Giovanni in Conca. This ensures the church is not forgotten. So next time you pass Piazza Missori remember the story of resilience and transformation. Remember the story of San Giovanni in Conca.