Ponder for a moment the stories held within seemingly ordinary structures. Today, we stand before the Chiesa di San Carlo al Lazzaretto. This small octagonal church has witnessed centuries of Milanese history. Its walls whisper tales of plague, resilience, and rebirth.
Originally, the Chiesa di San Carlo al Lazzaretto stood in the center of a vast leprosarium. This was a rectangular cloister built in the 15th century. It was designed by Lazzaro Palazzi. Imagine a sprawling complex designed to contain and care for those afflicted with leprosy. In the center of this stood a simple altar. This allowed the sick to participate in religious services from afar.
The great plague epidemic of 1576 ravaged Milan. Archbishop Carlo Borromeo commissioned Pellegrino Tibaldi to build a new church. The Chiesa di San Carlo al Lazzaretto would be a place of solace and hope. Construction took place between 1558 and 1592. The result was this centralized church with open arches. These arches allowed the ill to see services from their surrounding porticos.
Over time, the Lazzaretto’s purpose shifted. During the French occupation, it became barracks. Later, Giuseppe Piermarini was tasked with transforming the Chiesa di San Carlo al Lazzaretto into a secular Temple of the Nation. He demolished the cupola and walled up the sides. However, this transformation was short-lived.
The 19th century saw the Lazzaretto fall into disrepair. Its fields were used for agriculture. The cloister housed peasants. Near the end of the century, most of the Lazzaretto was demolished. Fortunately, the Chiesa di San Carlo al Lazzaretto was spared. In 1884, it was reconsecrated. A new dome and facade portico were added.
Interestingly, the Chiesa di San Carlo al Lazzaretto appears in Alessandro Manzoni’s novel I Promessi Sposi. It serves as the backdrop for a scene about the plague. The church has undergone extensive restoration. The Rocca Foundation funded the work in memory of Roberto Rocca. The goal was to create a space for both religious services and concerts. The interior was redesigned. The altar was moved. A new organ with 1800 pipes was installed.
The municipality pedestrianized Largo Bellintani around the Chiesa di San Carlo al Lazzaretto in 2016. This enhanced the area’s beauty. It also created a more peaceful setting for reflection. The Chiesa di San Carlo al Lazzaretto stands as a testament to Milan’s past. It has been a place of healing, worship, and now, cultural enrichment. Take a moment to appreciate the layers of history within its walls. The Chiesa di San Carlo al Lazzaretto is open to all. Masses are held on Wednesdays and Fridays at 10 am.