Beneath a somewhat simple exterior lies a world where art and mortality intertwine within the Chiesa di San Bernardino alle Ossa. Today I am going to tell you all about it. This church is not just another religious building in Milan. It is a testament to history, faith and human existence.
San Bernardino alle Ossa began long before its famous ossuary. Back in the 4th century AD, this area held religious significance. Milan was then a major hub of the Roman Empire. A cemetery and a small Christian church dedicated to Santo Stefano were established here.
By the early medieval period, a hospital appeared next to the cemetery. Founded in 1145, the hospital cared for the sick and poor. The cemetery quickly filled with remains because of Milan’s growing population. A permanent solution was needed to house the bones.
In 1210, a small chamber was built to hold bones from the overcrowded cemetery. This marked the start of the ossuary. In 1269, a new church was built for the community. It also served the faithful who came to venerate the dead.
Centuries passed and the church became more significant. In the 1600s, Giovanni Andrea Biffi renovated the church. He redesigned the ossuary and incorporated human remains into the wall decorations. Skulls and tibiae were arranged elaborately. This reflected religious veneration and philosophical meditation on death.
However, fire destroyed much of the Chiesa di San Bernardino alle Ossa in 1712. Carlo Giuseppe Merlo, rebuilt the church. He significantly expanded the original structure. Merlo embraced the Baroque style. The new church was completed in 1717. It was dedicated to Saint Bernardino of Siena. The facade was completed in 1776.
The ossuary’s vault was frescoed in 1695 by Sebastiano Ricci. It shows a Triumph of Souls and Flying Angels. Niches and doors are decorated with bones. It’s all in the Rococo style.
King John V of Portugal visited in 1738. He was so impressed that he had a similar chapel built in Évora near Lisbon. It is now known as the Capela dos Ossos.
After the entrance, a narrow corridor leads into the ossuary. The interior walls are covered in skulls and bones. These remains came from the old ossuary. They also came from cemeteries closed after the local hospital’s shutdown in 1652.
The bones are arranged decoratively in niches. They adorn the pillars and embellish the doors. The macabre theme blends with Rococo grace. Above the altar stands a statue of Our Lady of Sorrows. Gerolamo Cattaneo created this in the mid-17th century.
Many thought the bones belonged to Christian martyrs killed by Arian heretics. However, they have been identified as patients from Brolo Hospital. Also, priors and confreres who managed it. Prisoners and members of aristocratic families too.
In 1931, a hidden crypt was discovered beneath the church. It contained more bones and relics. Natale Oliva initiated restoration projects to conserve the bone decorations. His successors continued his work, preserving the unique bone artwork.
The Chiesa di San Bernardino alle Ossa stands as a testament to Milan’s history. It is a place of reflection. Its walls adorned with bones invite contemplation. It reflects the Catholic belief in the soul’s triumph over death. A place of reverence for centuries.