Gone but not forgotten. That’s the story of the Chiesa dei Santi Gervaso e Protaso Martiri in Milan. This church no longer stands. It was demolished in 1930. A bank building replaced it. But its history is rich and deserves remembering.
The Chiesa dei Santi Gervaso e Protaso Martiri held a special place in Milan’s heart. Tradition says it was built on the site where the twin brothers Gervaso and Protaso lived. They were martyrs of the Christian faith. They died in Milan in the third century. Their story is woven into the very fabric of the church’s past.
From the eighth to the ninth centuries Benedictine monks lived there. They established their first city monastery at the Chiesa dei Santi Gervaso e Protaso Martiri. A document from the Ambrosian Archive proves the monastery existed as early as 881. The monks and secular priests continued their services even after the Benedictines moved to San Simpliciano in 1081. The abbot of San Simpliciano still held the title of Abbas Sanctorum Protasii et Gervasii martyrum et Sancti Simpliciani confessoris. This title shows the strong bond between the two places of worship.
The church underwent several changes throughout the centuries. In 1574 it became the seat of the Confraternity of the Blessed Sacrament. Archbishop Carlo Borromeo established it. In the sixteenth century he commissioned architect Pellegrino Tibaldi to renovate and expand the building. Tibaldi’s design transformed the church into a large rectangular space. The main altar was centrally located. Cardinal Federico Borromeo later added a pronao. An apprentice of Francesco Maria Richini created the wrought-iron gate.
The interior boasted stunning artwork. Many pieces survived the demolition. They now reside in museums and other churches. The chapels housed significant works. On the right the first chapel was dedicated to the Guardian Angel. It contained a seventeenth-century oil painting. The second chapel honored Saint Anne. It displayed a painting by Carlo Francesco Nuvolone. The third chapel was dedicated to Saint Anthony Abbot. It featured a seventeenth-century artwork now in Rho. The left side chapels included a first chapel dedicated to Saint John the Baptist. Daniele Crespi’s artwork dominated it. It included a canvas depicting the Baptist’s preaching and various frescoes. Many of these works went to Busto Arsizio the artist’s hometown. The other two chapels showcased works by the Cerano.
During the demolition in 1929 archaeologists made amazing discoveries. They unearthed remains of fourteenth-century chapels. The chapels displayed frescoes from the Lombard school. A Madonna and Child between Saint John the Baptist and Saint Anthony Abbot stood out. It was attributed to Giovanni Donato Montorfano. This and other works moved to the Civic Museum of Ancient Art in Milan in 1932. Another fourteenth-century fresco a fragmented Madonna and Child with a saint bishop was found. Today it’s at the Sforza Castle Civic Museums.
The demolition ended a chapter in Milan’s history. But the memory of the Chiesa dei Santi Gervaso e Protaso Martiri lives on. The parish of Saints Protaso and Gervaso in Piazzale Brescia remembers it. The beautiful seventeenth-century gate also survived. It now guards the entrance to a small garden. Though the building is gone its story continues. It’s a testament to Milan’s enduring spirit. A reminder of its rich religious past.