Hidden amongst Lodi’s western outskirts stands the Chiesa dei Santi Filippo Giacomo e Gualtero. More commonly known as the church of San Gualtero this unassuming building holds a rich history. It wasn’t always here.
For centuries a smaller church existed near Porta Regale. Dedicated to San Gualtero Garbagni it was connected to the Misericordia hospital. That original church however proved inadequate. Too small too modest for its role as a parish church. Flooding from the Adda River repeatedly damaged it. So in 1836 the decision was made to build anew.
The new site 700 meters west offered better protection from the river’s wrath. Initially Carlo Moroni a Lodigiano engineer was tasked with the design. But his plans were superseded by those of Pietro Pestagalli from Milan. Pestagalli worked for the Imperial-Royal General Directorate of Public Works. His neoclassical style would define the new Chiesa dei Santi Filippo Giacomo e Gualtero.
Construction aimed to coincide with Emperor Ferdinand I’s 1838 visit. Securing government funding was a key motivator. There was even talk of dedicating the church to San Ferdinando. However the foundation stone was only laid on September 13 1840. Bishop Benaglio and the Imperial-Royal Government Delegate were present. Giuseppe Grassi the master builder oversaw the project under the direction of engineer Gerolamo Carminati. The 150 000 lire cost was covered by the communes of Chiosi di Porta Regale Bottedo and Cà de’ Zecchi plus generous private donations.
The Chiesa dei Santi Filippo Giacomo e Gualtero stands today a testament to this endeavor. Its northern facade faces the Milan road connected by a short tree-lined avenue. The apse faces south. A painting of Saint Thomas of Villanova distributing alms once graced its walls. Originally by Antonio Carneo it now resides in the Brera Pinacoteca then later in the church of Besnate.
The Chiesa dei Santi Filippo Giacomo e Gualtero is more than just a building. It’s a physical manifestation of faith community resilience and the enduring legacy of San Gualtero. A story woven into the very stones that comprise this remarkable place. A place where history and faith beautifully intertwine. A place worthy of your contemplation and respect.