Beneath the weathered stone of the Chiesa dei Santi Filippo e Giacomo in Nosedo lies a secret. This unassuming church in Milan’s Nosedo district holds centuries of history. It’s more than just a place of worship. It’s a time capsule.
The Chiesa dei Santi Filippo e Giacomo wasn’t always as you see it today. Evidence suggests Roman settlement here in the first century AD. Pottery shards unearthed beneath the church floor are testament to this ancient past. The name Nosedo itself likely derives from the Latin “Nocetum”. An inscription dating back to 536 AD now adorns the church’s counter-façade. It reveals an even earlier Christian church stood on this very spot.
Built around the middle of the thirteenth century the current church incorporated elements of its predecessor. Initially a simple single-nave structure the Chiesa dei Santi Filippo e Giacomo underwent modifications in the fourteenth century. A portico was added then later incorporated into the nave. This altered the church’s shape making it longer. The fifteenth and sixteenth centuries saw continued use. Sadly a period of neglect followed.
Then came restoration. Starting in 1985 and concluding in 2015 the Chiesa dei Santi Filippo e Giacomo was meticulously restored. This prevented the complete loss of this historical gem. The simple rectangular building with its gable roof remains largely unchanged. Its exterior is plain yet intriguing. Three sections of the original plaster have been left exposed to showcase the underlying structure. The small sacristy nestled at the rear adds a touch of charm. A small bell gable graces the back wall.
Inside fourteenth-century frescoes adorn the upper walls. A blessing Christ dominates the altar. An eagle-headed angel possibly representing St John flanks him. A baroque altar remains a focal point. A white marble bas-relief of St John stands nearby.
Remarkably during the restoration excavation revealed 76 burials. These date from the early Middle Ages to the sixteenth century. A section of the floor was transformed into a viewing window offering a glimpse of this poignant underground graveyard. Analysis of the remains with their jewellery and decorations indicate a relatively high social standing. These discoveries paint a vivid picture of the lives customs and health of Nosedo’s inhabitants.
The Chiesa dei Santi Filippo e Giacomo in Nosedo is more than just stones and mortar. It’s a living testament to the layers of history that have shaped this corner of Milan. It is a place where the whispers of the past intertwine with the faith of the present. Its story awaits to be explored further.