Casón del Buen Retiro

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The Casón del Buen Retiro. A ballroom once. Now a treasure trove of art history.

Picture this majestic building. Originally a ballroom for King Philip IV’s court in 1637. Designed by Alonso Carbonel it was part of the larger Buen Retiro Palace. That palace is mostly gone now. Only the Casón and the Salón de Reinos remain.

The Casón’s ceiling boasts a masterpiece. Luca Giordano’s Allegory of the Golden Fleece. A vibrant fresco. It’s practically the only original part left. Though heavily restored in the 19th century. It remains stunning.

After the palace’s destruction in the 19th century the Casón saw changes. It was expanded. Two neoclassical facades were added. One sadly collapsed after a cyclone. Architect Mariano Carderera was replaced by Ricardo Velázquez Bosco.

For years the Casón served various purposes. It housed the Real Gabinete de Estudios Topográficos. Before that it was the Real Gabinete de Máquinas.

In 1971 it became part of the Museo del Prado. It housed the museum’s 19th-century collection. Including around 3000 paintings. Then it was home to Picasso’s Guernica from 1981 to 1992. A major highlight.

The Casón underwent major renovations from 1997 to 2007. Two new floors were added. The building was strengthened. The Giordano fresco was restored. The expanded space now houses the Prado’s study centre. Its library and archives.

Today the Casón del Buen Retiro is a center for research. A place for art experts to learn. It houses the Prado’s library with 60000 books. A legacy of art history. A testament to its enduring beauty. A must see.

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