Right here, where we stand, was once the heart of the Ghisolfa district. It was a rural area dotted with farmhouses. Imagine, if you can, a landscape far removed from the urban sprawl that surrounds us today.
The name “Ghisolfa” itself comes from two “cascine” or farmhouses. They were called Cascina Ghisolfa and Cascina Ghisolfetta. These cascine existed long before the urbanization of the mid 20th century.
Cascina Ghisolfa, in particular, was quite remarkable. Historical records suggest it resembled a small castle. This transformation likely occurred in the mid-1800s. During that time there was a rediscovery of the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. The monumental entrance was an addition to a much older complex of rural buildings.
To the north of Cascina Ghisolfa flowed the Fontanile Peschiera. This waterway carried water to the nearby Villa Simonetta. It even reached the district of Ortolani or Chinatown.
Sadly, this beautiful cascina met its end after the war. It was demolished without much consideration. Today, a supermarket parking lot occupies its former location. It is a stark reminder of how quickly times change.
The Ponte della Ghisolfa, or Ghisolfa Bridge, is one of the few remnants of the old “borgo”. Borgo is an Italian word for village. Its official name is Cavalcavia Adriano Bacula. However, most locals still call it Ponte della Ghisolfa. The bridge connects the Bovisa district with Ghisolfa. It also links Sempione and viale Certosa through viale Monte Ceneri. The bridge already existed in a smaller version. It was expanded between 1939 and 1941.
Via Melchiorre Delfico is the main street of the district. It still follows the path of the ancient road to Simonetta. Along this road were other cascine. There were Cascina Cavaiona I and II. There was also Villa Nuova. Further along were cascina Brusada and Librera. Of course, there were also Cascine Ghisolfa and Ghisolfetta. The oldest buildings date back to the early 20th century. However, they are not particularly outstanding examples of architecture.
Not far from here, almost hidden, stands the ancient church of Santo Spirito alla Ghisolfa. The church dates back to 1505. An inscription inside the bell tower confirms this. Most likely there was an older chapel in the area, but there is no information about it. Today, large residential complexes surround the church. They overshadow it and hide it from view.
The people of Ghisolfa always owned the church. The Priors of the Confraternity of the Blessed Sacrament represented them. They took care of the oratory. Saint Luigi Gonzaga once prayed in this oratory. He often visited this place when he was a student of the Jesuit Fathers in Milan. Today, the oratory is dedicated to S. Luigi. He is the patron saint of youth. On his feast day, a solemn mass is celebrated. The parish choir and the local population participate. The interior of the small church is simple. It houses two lovely old paintings.
The Ghisolfa area has faced social challenges. This is especially true in the Piazza Prealpi area. It is located further north beyond Via Mac Mahon. This area with its Aler buildings represents working-class Milan. Sadly, it is famous for criminal events in the 1990s.
The Circolo anarchico Ponte della Ghisolfa was located here. “The Bridge” is one of Italy’s oldest and most active anarchist circles. It was founded on May 1, 1968. The railway worker Giuseppe Pinelli was its most well-known animator and activist.
In recent years, the district has seen some improvements. This includes the creation of the Carmelo Bene Garden. Many still call it the Conad Garden. This is because of the supermarket around the corner. The garden is bordered by Via Francesco Caracciolo. This street widens in this section. It provides space for parking.