Torn between faith and conflict stands the Capela do Senhor de Além. This small chapel holds a fascinating story. It is a story of religious rivalry between Porto and Gaia. Look closely at the Capela do Senhor de Além. It sits in Vila Nova de Gaia. The chapel overlooks the Douro River.
Its story began in 1140. Bishop D Pedro Rabaldes ordered a convent to be built. It was to honor São Nicolau. During construction a crucifix was found. A hermitage was built for it where the Capela do Senhor de Além now stands.
Centuries later the convent fell into disrepair. A decision was made to construct a new monastery. As its importance grew Bishop Baltazar Limpo ordered statues to be moved. These statues of São Nicolau São Bartolomeu and the crucifix were moved to the chapel. This happened in 1500. A procession of boats on the Douro River marked the event.
The Capela do Senhor de Além became part of a string of chapels. These dotted both sides of the river. They served the religious needs of river and sea people. The Porto Council administered the chapel. The crucifix was paraded in processions. These processions occurred during droughts or floods. They also happened to give thanks. The crucifix would travel to the Porto Cathedral. It would then return to the Capela do Senhor de Além.
In 1734 a severe drought hit Porto. A grand procession took place. The crucifix traveled down the river to the mouth and back. Decorated boats filled with brotherhoods clergy noblemen and commoners accompanied it. In 1755 Porto escaped a terrible earthquake. A procession of thanks was held.
Conflict arose when canons refused to participate in a procession. They believed the Cathedral Chapter lacked authority. They would not let the crucifix leave the Cathedral. This sparked a conflict between the Porto Council and Cathedral Chapter.
The Council requested the crucifix’s return. The Cathedral Chapter ignored the request. The Palace of Justice ordered the Chapter to allow a private return. This order was also disobeyed. The Bishop of Porto intervened. The problem remained unsolved for years.
The people of Gaia felt betrayed. They had a replica crucifix made. It became important to them. It was used in river processions during calamities. It would travel downriver. It never returned to Porto.
Eventually the conflict was resolved. The crucifix was returned to the Capela do Senhor de Além. To avoid further issues processions changed. They went to the S Miguel-o-Anjo Chapel first. Then they proceeded to the Cathedral.
Today the original crucifix resides in the Chapterhouse at the Porto Cathedral. The replica is in the Santa Marinha Church in Vila Nova de Gaia. A story says canons collected the crucifix during a drought. They never allowed its return.
In 1877 the original chapel was demolished. A new chapel was built higher up. This was to avoid floodwaters. It had gilded carvings and a copy of the crucifix. Sadly the chapel fell into decay.
The first hospice was founded near the chapel in 1738. It was run by friars. It closed in 1832. The hospice building became a ceramics factory. This factory produced beautiful tiles. It may have produced the chapel’s yellow and white tiles.
The ceramics factory changed hands. Archaeological work revealed three phases of occupation. These included the original hermitage the hospice and the ceramics factory.
The Capela do Senhor de Além stands as a testament. It shows faith rivalry and resilience. Though in decay it holds secrets of the past. A past filled with processions prayers and conflicts. Remember the story of this chapel. Remember the people who fought for their beliefs. Remember the Capela do Senhor de Além.