Capela de Sâo Lourenço

Clutching my grandmother’s rosary, I first encountered Capela de São Lourenço, or as the locals affectionately call it, Igreja dos Grilos (Cricket’s Church). This peculiar nickname, I learned, has quite a story. It harkens back to the 16th century when Jesuits, nicknamed “Cricket Priests” due to their black tunics and their Lisbon headquarters’ location on Rua do Grilo (Cricket Street), arrived in Porto. Their mission was to build this very church, Capela de São Lourenço. The name stuck, a testament to the Jesuits’ lasting impact on Porto. Capela de São Lourenço stands as a testament to their austere aesthetic. The 16th-century Mannerist style is evident in the severe exterior. Notice the lack of religious imagery or lavish ornamentation on the facade. This simplicity reflects the Jesuit emphasis on austerity in all aspects of life. Inside Capela de São Lourenço, however, is a different story. The austerity gives way to opulence. Gold-coated ceilings and columns shimmer alongside Baroque altars adorned with wooden saints. This stark contrast between the exterior and interior adds to the church’s mystique. The church’s history continued to unfold after the Jesuits’ expulsion from Portugal in 1759. It passed into the hands of Augustinian monks, and later, during the Civil War of 1832-33, Capela de São Lourenço served as a military barracks for the Liberal Army. Even the celebrated poet and soldier Almeida Garrett was stationed here. Today, the church also houses an archaeological museum with a collection of Roman artifacts found in Porto. It’s a hidden gem, a testament to the city’s rich history. If you’re lucky, you might even catch a classical music concert within these historic walls, a truly immersive experience.