“Another church? Really?” I hear you ask. But trust me, the Capela de São João de Deus is more than just another pretty facade. This chapel has a story woven into the very fabric of Porto.
Let’s step closer to the Capela de São João de Deus. Its history is intertwined with the tale of a vanished convent. The Igreja de São João Novo once stood proudly nearby. It was the church of the extinct Convent of the Friars Eremitas Calçados de Santo Agostinho.
The convent’s name paid homage to São João de Sahagun. He was also known as São João Facundo. The convent was founded in the late 16th century. It was built upon the former Church of São João Baptista. That earlier church had been the seat of the lost parish of São João de Belomonte.
Now, imagine the scene in the early 19th century. Liberalism was taking hold. In the aftermath of the Portuguese Civil War, religious orders were suppressed. The Augustinian friars were forced to leave their convent in 1834.
What became of their grand building? The criminal court of Porto moved in. It has been there since 1863. The Igreja de São João Novo bears artistic and architectural similarities to the Church of São Lourenço. It also shows the influence of the Igreja dos Grilos. This is evident in the facade’s composition and interior design.
Across from the Igreja de São João Novo stands the Palácio São João Novo. It was built in the late 18th century. Many believe Nicolau Nasoni designed it. During the Siege of Porto, it served as a hospital. Later, it became a museum of ethnography.
Inside the Igreja de São João Novo, you would have found carved altars. These altars dated back to the Baroque period of the 17th century. Tiles from the same era added to the church’s splendor. The main altar was adorned with an altarpiece. It dated from 1757 to 1766. A moving screen depicted the Vision of St. Augustine. The work is attributed to João Glama Stroberle. He was a painter of German origin.
A mausoleum also graced the high altar. Its magnificent decoration captured everyone’s attention. The artist who created it remains unknown. The Alto Coro featured a single-row chair. A pipe organ stood on the Gospel side.
Tiles depicting the life of Santa Rita de Cássia were noteworthy. Bartolomeu Antunes created them. They were located on the side altar of Santa Rita. Images of Santo Ovídio and Our Lady of Guia also stood collateral to the altar. Manuel Miranda created these. The altar of Senhor dos Passos was particularly interesting. The image of Jesus Christ was large and realistic. This image was brought out for the traditional Senhor dos Passos procession.
Today, the Igreja de São João Novo is a cultural space. It is one of the venues for In Spiritum. The festival encourages the discovery of historical heritage through music. So, while the Capela de São João de Deus is a beautiful destination, remember the stories of the Igreja de São João Novo.