Whispers from St Margaret’s Well. Binsey’s story unfolds before you. This unassuming village on the River Thames holds secrets. It’s more than just a quiet place outside Oxford. Binsey is a place steeped in history. The parish church of St Margaret stands proudly. It’s a 12th-century Grade I Listed Building. But its fame extends far beyond its architectural beauty.
Just outside its west end lies St Margaret’s Well. A Grade II Listed Building this well is far more significant than you might think. It’s the inspiration for Lewis Carroll’s Treacle Well in Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland. A holy well dedicated to St Frideswide patron saint of Oxford its waters were believed to have healing powers. Legend tells of St Frideswide fleeing a king. She was pursued but her prayers caused the king’s blindness. His sight was restored by the well. It became a medieval pilgrimage site. The word treacle then meant a healing unguent.
Look closely. You can almost see the pilgrims of old. They flocked to Binsey. Their knees wore away the pavement. Cripples left crutches as thanks. Binsey’s church and well were central to their faith and hope. The medieval village was larger than it appears today. Crop marks reveal houses along the road between the church and the modern village. Perhaps the village moved south.
Binsey’s connection to Oxford is deep. It was considered part of Oxford from the Middle Ages. It was officially part of the city from 1800. The parish of Binsey existed until 1926. However it was administered by Oxford City Council. In 1921 Binsey had only 63 people. Binsey is home to nine listed buildings including Medley Manor Farmhouse Manor Farm Cottage and the Perch Inn.
Gerard Manley Hopkins’ poem Binsey Poplars immortalized the poplars along the river. These trees were sadly felled but have been replanted. P. D James’ novel The Children of Men also features Binsey locations. The Perch Inn and St Margaret’s Church appear in the dystopian story.
Binsey’s story is a tale of faith healing and the passage of time. A small village with an incredibly rich history. It reminds us of the importance of preserving history and the power of stories to connect the past to the present. So stand here absorb the atmosphere and let Binsey’s history weave its spell upon you.