Berger Warte

High on a hill, the Berger Warte stands watch. This isn’t just any hill. It’s the highest point in Frankfurt, a proud 212.4 meters above sea level. The Berger Warte itself, a sturdy tower of red Main sandstone, rises about 12 meters tall. Built in the mid-16th century, it has witnessed centuries of Frankfurt’s history unfold. The Berger Warte wasn’t part of Frankfurt’s defensive landwehr system like other towers. Its purpose was different. It served as a vital observation post and a place where escorts changed hands along a crucial trade route between Frankfurt and Bischofsheim. Merchants traveling this road relied on the protection offered by Frankfurt. At the Berger Warte, that protection began or ended, depending on the direction of travel. Imagine the scene: merchants with their carts, nervous about bandits, relieved to see the solid stone of the Berger Warte. In 1340, a wooden predecessor stood on this very spot, known as the Geierswarte, or Vulture Watch. It was destroyed in 1552 during a siege of Frankfurt. Albrecht Alcibiades of Brandenburg-Kulmbach’s troops burned it down. But just a few years later, in 1557, Count Philip III of Hanau-Münzenberg secretly had it rebuilt, this time in stone, creating the Berger Warte we see today. Originally, the entrance was on the first floor, accessible only by a ladder. This ladder could be retracted in times of danger, making the tower a safe haven. A circular wall, a ditch, and wooden palisades further enhanced its defenses. The Berger Warte wasn’t just a silent observer. In 1759, during the Seven Years’ War, the French Marshal de Broglie commanded his troops from this very spot during the Battle of Bergen. His victory prevented the Prussians from marching into Frankfurt. Another dramatic scene unfolded here in 1790. Thousands of troops from Hesse-Kassel camped at the Berger Warte to protect the imperial election in Frankfurt from revolutionary unrest. From here, they witnessed the election and coronation of Leopold II, marked by cannon fire and celebrations. Nearby, a grim reminder of the past lingers. From 1484 to 1834, the execution site for the Bornheimer Berg county was located near the Berger Warte. The stones of the gallows were even used to build the stairs you see today, leading to the tower’s entrance. The Berger Warte has also seen moments of political significance. In 1848, members of the Frankfurt National Assembly, including the famous “Turnvater Jahn,” gave speeches to crowds from the tower steps. Even World War II left its mark, damaging the tower. Thankfully, it was restored in the 1950s. Today, the Berger Warte continues to watch over Frankfurt. It offers stunning views of the city and beyond, reminding us of its rich and layered past.