Imagine standing here in front of Ban Tha Mai I Cemetery a place where the echoes of a bygone era resonate. This is no ordinary graveyard. It is a testament to the lives of foreigners who shaped Chiang Mai’s history.
Ban Tha Mai I Cemetery was founded in 1898. King Chulalongkorn, also known as Rama V, granted this land. His Royal Gift had one stipulation. The land may never be sold.
The cemetery became the final resting place for non-Thais. These were individuals from varied backgrounds. Missionaries, teak company employees and diplomats rest here. Soldiers, children, adventurers and teachers also found their eternal home here. Expats from many countries lie side by side.
You will see a map attached to the warden’s house. It lists all graves and their occupants. Their nationalities are also recorded. Some plots remain unoccupied.
One notable figure buried here is Captain Hans Markward Jensen. He was seconded from the Danish army. In 1902, Jensen played a crucial role in quelling an uprising. The Shan people rebelled against government oppression. They sacked Phrae and beheaded the governor. Jensen led forces against them but was killed in action. King Chulalongkorn promoted him posthumously to major. The King also paid for his headstone.
Close by is the Macfie family plot. David Fleming Macfie and his wife Kammao are buried here. David managed teak concessions. He donated a sacred white elephant calf to King Prajadhipok Rama VII. Kammao was a handmaiden to a Chiang Mai princess. She became a Christian. She helped construct several churches. Their children Norah, Angus and Violet also rest nearby. They were born in Chiang Mai. They later received foreign educations.
Reverend Daniel McGilvray and his wife Sophia are also buried here. Daniel was an American evangelist. He spent 53 years in Thailand. For the first year, he lived in an open hut. Locals gawked at him. They called him “kolas” meaning “from across the sea”.
Leo GM Alting Von Geusau rests here as well. He was a Dutch anthropologist. He renounced organized religion. He became a protector of the Akha hill tribe.
A poignant memorial marks the grave of Oliver Johnson. He was a three-year-old boy who drowned. The memorial features green ceramic tiles. Four tiles show a child’s drawings. The other two bear the message “Oliver Johnson a strong boy age 3 drowned February 24th 1980”.
Queen Victoria watches over Ban Tha Mai I Cemetery. Her statue stands in the northern corner. It arrived in Thailand in 1903. It stood at the British Consulate for many years. In 1980, it was moved to the cemetery.
Ban Tha Mai I Cemetery offers a glimpse into Chiang Mai’s past. It reminds us of the diverse people who contributed to the city’s story. Take a moment to reflect on their lives. Consider their impact on this vibrant region.