Right here, the An Taisce Mural tells a tale far beyond its vibrant colors. Did you know it represents Ireland’s commitment to preserving its heritage?
An Taisce, meaning “the treasury” in Irish, is the National Trust for Ireland. It champions the protection of heritage buildings and landscapes. This mural embodies that spirit.
The An Taisce Mural, found off Nassau Street in Dublin, is also known as the Tain Wall. Desmond Kinney created this mosaic mural in 1974. Sadly, it faced neglect and lacked proper on-site identification. There was no artist’s credit or even the artwork’s name. The colophon adjacent to the wall disappeared.
The son and daughters of Desmond Kinney, who continue his studio’s work, contacted the property owners who commissioned the An Taisce Mural in 1974. Progress was paused due to planned demolition and new construction.
The Setanta Wall or An Taisce Mural illustrates key events from the Irish epic Tain Bo Cuailnge. This translates to the Cattle Raid of Cooley. The epic is set 2000 years ago. It depicts the life of Cu Chulainn, the hero. He defended Ulster against Queen Maeve of Connacht. She wanted to steal the Brown Bull of Cooley.
Let’s look at the scenes depicted on the An Taisce Mural starting from the left. The mural shows how Cu Chulainn got his name. His birth name was Setanta. At age seven, he was invited to a feast at Culann’s house in Cooley. A guard dog attacked him. Setanta killed the dog. He volunteered to guard Culann’s house for a year. Setanta became the Hound of Culann or Cu Chulainn.
Another scene shows the Curse of Macha. Macha died after King Conor of Ulster forced her to race while pregnant. She cursed the men of Ulster. They would be as weak as women in childbirth during their greatest danger. As Queen Maeve approached, the men were prostrated by the curse.
The An Taisce Mural depicts Cu Chulainn and Ferdia’s mortal combat. Cu Chulainn defeated many of Maeve’s warriors. Maeve tricked Ferdia, Cu Chulainn’s best friend, into fighting him. They met at Ardee. On the fourth day, Cu Chulainn killed Ferdia with the Gae Bolga. It was a spring-loaded multi-barbed javelin.
The mural displays the Meeting of the Bulls. The Brown Bull of Cooley and the White-horned Bull were Ireland’s greatest bulls. Maeve wanted the Brown Bull. King Daire refused. Maeve invaded Ulster. The bulls, shape-changed druids, killed each other.
The An Taisce Mural also shows the Death of Cu Chulainn. Ten years after the Tain, Cu Chulainn was defeated by magic at 27. He tied himself to a pillar to die standing. The Grey of Macha, one of his chariot horses, fought by his side. The Morrigan, a battle goddess, perched on his shoulder as a raven. Queen Maeve appears on horseback on the extreme right.
An Taisce continues its work today. Americans for An Taisce raises funds to protect Ireland’s heritage. The organization addresses climate and biodiversity crises. It promotes human health. An Taisce educates and advocates for a sustainable future.
The An Taisce Mural, though once neglected, stands as a reminder. It is a reminder of Ireland’s rich heritage. It is a reminder of the ongoing efforts to preserve it for generations. It is a vivid story etched in tile.