Imagine flames licking at the stained glass. That’s Kristallnacht at the Alte Synagoge. This Old Synagogue in Essen stands as a powerful reminder of a tumultuous past. It is now a center for remembrance and Jewish culture.
The Old Synagogue wasn’t always “old”. In 1913, it opened as the Neue Synagoge meaning New Synagogue. The Jewish community in Essen had grown. Rabbi Salomon Samuel wanted a grand synagogue. It would show Judaism’s importance in German society.
Edmund Körner designed the building. It was a large Byzantine-style structure. A copper dome topped it off. Jugendstil influences added to its beauty. The interior shimmered with deep blue and gold tiles. Rabbi Samuel ensured the decorations reflected Jewish traditions. He paid close attention to the mosaics and stained glass symbols.
The Alte Synagoge was huge for its time. It measured 230 feet long and 98 feet wide. The dome reached 112 feet high. Over 1,500 people could gather in the main hall. Concerts often filled this space. An organ and a large bima stood at the front. Besides the main sanctuary, there were classrooms. Also a community hall, a secretariat, and a library. The Rabbinerhaus behind the synagogue housed the rabbi and cantor.
The Nazi era began in 1933. Anti-Jewish policies grew harsher. Kristallnacht struck on November 9, 1938. Jewish businesses and synagogues were attacked. Many were burned. The Old Synagogue’s interior was destroyed by fire. Fortunately, the exterior remained mostly intact. Essen was heavily bombed during World War II. Yet, the building survived without further damage.
From 1945 to 1959, the Alte Synagoge stood unused. It was a ruin in the city center. In 1959, the surviving Jewish community built a smaller synagogue. The city of Essen acquired the former synagogue that year. It was renovated into a museum for industrial design. This was called “Haus Industrieform”. The interior was redesigned. Remnants of the synagogue were removed. Mosaics and ornaments were covered. The main prayer hall was divided. A new floor was installed. The ceiling was covered too.
A fire damaged the design exhibition in 1979. This and a change in attitude toward historic buildings led to change. The city council founded the Alte Synagoge institution. It would be a place of remembrance. Also a center for historical and political documentation.
From 1986 to 1988, the building was reconstructed. The state of North Rhine-Westphalia funded it. The soaring dome was restored. It was plain plaster instead of the original blue mosaic. The balcony was reinstated. The marble ark for the Torah was reconstructed.
In 2010, the Alte Synagoge reopened. It became Germany’s first “House of Jewish Culture”. Today, the Alte Synagoge hosts exhibitions. It holds events about Jewish culture and religion. Concerts, plays, and readings also take place here.
Since 1988, the Salomon Ludwig Steinheim Institute has done research here. It studies the cultural, religious, and literary history of Jews in German-speaking countries. In 2011, it moved into the Rabbinerhaus. It works with the University of Düsseldorf.
As you leave, consider the Alte Synagoge’s journey. From a vibrant center of worship. Through destruction and repurposing. To a place of remembrance and cultural celebration. It is a testament to resilience. It stands as a beacon of hope.