Amidst the bustling Plaça Pau Vila, a poignant narrative unfolds, etched in the very stones of the Al General Moragues Stele. This isn’t just a monument; it’s a conversation with history, a tribute to a man whose life and death are intertwined with the fate of Barcelona. The Al General Moragues Stele stands as a stark reminder of General Josep Moragues i Mas, a Catalan general who fought valiantly during the War of the Spanish Succession. His unwavering loyalty to Archduke Charles led him to resist the Bourbon forces, a decision that ultimately sealed his tragic fate. After Barcelona’s fall in 1714, Moragues attempted to escape to Majorca, hoping to reignite the resistance. However, betrayal awaited him, leading to his capture and imprisonment. Subjected to brutal torture, he was eventually executed in 1715. His body was dismembered, and his head, placed in a cage, was displayed at the Portal de Mar for twelve long years. This gruesome act served as a chilling warning to anyone daring to challenge the new king’s authority. The Al General Moragues Stele occupies a site of profound symbolic significance, near the very spot where Moragues’s head was once displayed. The initial concept for the monument, a head within a cage, mirrored the general’s grim fate. However, this design was deemed too disturbing and was abandoned. The present stele, crafted by artist Francesc Abad, takes a different approach. Six blocks of Carrara marble rise like a wedge, embracing a laurel hedge. Engraved on the marble are verses from Paul Celan’s poem “Suns thread”, a poignant reflection on loss and remembrance. A flagpole, added later, bears verses by Àngel Guimerà dedicated to Moragues. The Al General Moragues Stele, inaugurated in 1999, serves as a solemn reminder of a pivotal moment in Barcelona’s history. It commemorates not only the general’s sacrifice but also the enduring spirit of those who fought for Catalan freedoms.
Església Nostra Senyora de la Mercè
The Virgin’s gaze from the dome. A silent sentinel overlooking Barcelona. This is the Església Nostra Senyora de la Mercè.