“The last corn” is what the locals call it. That’s the meaning of Abelemkpe in local parlance. We are standing in one of Accra’s rapidly developing suburbs. Abelemkpe is more than just a location. It is a tale of two cities within a city.
Abelemkpe is in the Accra Metropolitan district within the Greater Accra Region of Ghana. It sits northwest of Alajo and southeast of Abofu. This sprawling township is surrounded by the remains of lush forests. These forests are a reminder of its origins.
Abelemkpe has two main entrances. One connects it to the Olusegun Obasanjo highway. This is one of Accra’s busiest roads. Locals, drivers, and walkers use it to get to the city’s central business district. The other entrance leads to Western Accra. It is less busy but geographically significant. This entrance leads to a central street that unintentionally splits Abelemkpe into two distinct halves.
To the north lies New Abelemkpe. Here, the rich and famous reside. High-rise buildings, hotels, and flashy restaurants dominate the landscape. High-income earners quickly purchase property here. Churches, elite schools, malls, and entertainment centers dot the skyline.
As you move south into Old Abelemkpe, the scenery changes dramatically. Luxury apartments give way to single or two-room compound houses. Several families live side by side in these houses. Kitchens and bathrooms are communal. Neighbors chat outside. Small shops line the sidewalks. Loud music and drinks create a lively atmosphere in the evenings.
Children play freely here. Any flat open space becomes a football field for the boys. The Railway Park and the Abelenkpe Park are two prominent soccer fields. Only the most talented local players regularly feature on these pitches.
The Mainland Hotel has been a fixture in Old Abelemkpe for years. It is where young men watch European matches after playing football all day. They argue over who is better. Ronaldo or Messi? Chelsea or Arsenal? Madrid or Barcelona? Many dream of becoming the next Messi or Ronaldo.
Old Abelemkpe is changing. Smartphones, iPads, and large flat-screen televisions are becoming more common. Elite restaurants are appearing. Developers are starting to build New Abelemkpe-type buildings in Old Abelemkpe. Some older, poorer residents accept payouts from developers and move to other towns. Others cling to their heritage.
The story of Abelemkpe’s name is often told. The first settler in the valley was Alhaji Sali. He purchased a small piece of land from the government. He wanted more land but lacked funds. Instead of spending his money on food, he lived entirely on corn he grew on his property. He eventually sold the extra land he acquired to the earliest settlers. These settlers became the residents of Old Abelemkpe.
The contagious development that started in New Abelemkpe is now surging through the town. It threatens to transform all that is old. The day when the names New and Old Abelemkpe are discarded in favor of just Abelemkpe is approaching. Abelemkpe, the last corn, has flourished.